DAY 1: Casks & Castles Part 1 (Aberdeenshire Continued)
slains castle
Overlooking the North Sea, Old Slains Castle was built around the 16th century, the property of the Earls of Errol. The first Earl of Errol, William Hay, was granted the title of earl by King James II in 1453, but the apple must have fallen far from the tree; the 9th Earl of Errol, Francis Hay, converted to Roman Catholicism. He was declared a traitor, he fled, and his castle destroyed. What do you expect? Of course he came crawling back, renouncing Roman Catholicism and spending the rest of his life praising the king and his mercy. New Slains Castle wasn’t rebuilt until 1837, almost 250 years later, by the 20th Earl of Error, William Hay (they ran out of names). During it’s heyday, it hosted many celebrities including Bram Stoker, whose stay here in 1895 supposedly inspired his 1897 novel Dracula, though Whitby Abbey in Newcastle was probably more what Stoker was going for. The castle was sold in 1913 by the 20th Earl of Errol and the new owner removed the roof to avoid paying taxes, penny wise perhaps but pound foolish.
Suggested duration: 30 minutes. Visit www.visitabdn.com for more information.
tolquhon castle
Completed by William Forbes, the 7th Laird of Tolquhon, in 1589, Tolquhon incorporated the previously existing Preston’s Tower, itself was built by Sir Henry Preston or his son-in-law William Forbes, 1st Laird of Tolquhon (too many Williams to keep track of). How do we know who built the castle? It says pretty clearly, above the entrance to the gatehouse: "AL THIS WARKE EXCEP THE AULD TOWR WAS BEGUN BE WILLIAM FORBES 15 APRIL 1584 AND ENDIT BE HIM 20 OCTOBER 1589" (You’d think a laird would have a better command of spelling.) The castle was sold in 1718 due to debt (not surprising given the failure with basic spelling).
Suggested duration: 30 minutes. Visit www.historicenvironment.scot for opening times and more information.
bonus: glen garioch distillery
The town of Oldmeldrum is known as the “granary of Aberdeenshire,” producing some of the finest quality barley in Scotland for over a thousand years, naturally making the area a good choice for a whiskey distillery. Somehow pronounced Glen “Geery,” this distillery was open at least as far back as 1797, making it one of the oldest distilleries in Scotland. It’s been operating as smoothly as its whiskey to the present day except for a short suspension in 1968 due to shortage of water; they couldn’t find an alternative source, but once they ran out of whiskey and sobered up, they found another source next door, and continue to drink to this day.
Tour duration: 60 minutes. Visit www.glengarioch.com for opening times and more information.
fyvie castle
Purportedly built by William the Lion in 1211, Fyvie famously served as an open-air Parliament site under Robert the Bruce (can we have class outside today, Mr. Bruce?) It then passed between various clans, each adding their own little touch to the castle, and by touch we mean tower - each family added their own tower including the Preston Family (from the Tolquhon Tower) the last built in 1890. The castle has been featured on several television shows about ghosts and haunted houses; it is said that in 1920, a woman’s skeleton was found behind a bedroom wall (perhaps a game of hide and seek gone horribly wrong). Her body was laid to rest but there were reports of strange sights and sounds, so the head of the castle put the skeleton back behind the bedroom wall, and the haunting stopped. Don’t even think about disturbing her beauty rest; the room, located somewhere in the south-west corner of the castle, has been sealed off for your “safety” and its location remains a mystery to this day. You can try to find it - at your own risk.
Suggested duration: 60 minutes. Visit www.nts.org.uk for opening times and more information.
huntly castle
At first belonging to John of Strathbogie, who was executed in 1306 for supporting Robert the Bruce against Edward I, the castle passed to his son, David Strathbogie, who was executed in 1314, for supporting Edward I against Robert the Bruce (you just can’t win sometimes). The castle was gifted to Sir Adam Gordon and the castle was later remodeled with stone not that it mattered. It was burned down by their "neighbor” (relatively speaking) the Earl of Moray while the Gordons were out at war supporting King James II (we asked you if you could watch the castle… not burn it down). The Earl of Huntly got his sweet revenge though with a defeat of the rebelling Black Douglas family, the main opposition to James II and then gave their house a royal makeover when they returned. The 4th Earl of Huntly, George, remodeled it further in preparation of a visiting Mary of Guise, the mother of Mary Queen of Scots, but apparently he didn’t take to her daughter because he was part of the rebellion against her and was killed in battle. The 6th Earl of Huntly, also George (at least not William) apparently didn’t learn any lesson from his predecessors and he joined the rebellion against James VI in 1594, resulting in the castle being destroyed. In an unexpected turn of events, he was not executed - he made peace with the king and was granted the title of Marquis of Huntly. (That is why it pays to be a front runner.) He remodeled the house (again) and they all lived happily ever after - never mind. His son, the 2nd Marquis, backed the king but the castle was taken by the Covenanters (those loyal to the Roman Catholic Church), and he was executed. The highlights of the castle include 1600’s-era intricately carved fireplaces and a carving on the front that essentially translates to “George was here.”
Suggested duration: 30 minutes. Visit www.historicenvironment.scot for opening times and more information.
bonus: stratisla distillery
The oldest working distillery in the Highlands, Stratisla has been distilling whiskey since 1786 and other than the fire in 1876, the explosion in 1879, and a fraudulent owner in 1940, it’s been smooth distilling especially after it was purchased by Chivas in 1950.
Tour duration: 60 minutes. Visit www.chivas.com for opening times and more information.
duff house & Bridge of Alvah
Built by William Adam in 1740 for William Duff, the 1st Earl of Fife (another pair of Williams to add to the collection), this house was originally intended to be larger but there was a falling out over money (there is indeed love lost between two Williams). The house was sold by the Earls of Fife in 1903 and struggled to make a new identity for itself, serving first as a hotel then as a sanatorium, a prisoner of war camp and military housing, all within the span of one century, before settling down as an art gallery. After, walk or drive two miles to the Bridge of Alvah, which overlooks a deep gorge and looks likes something from a fantasy novel although the only fantasies happening here were apparently of the earl, who supposedly entertained many a young lady in a room embedded in the bridge while his wife doted in the nearby castle (and by entertain we mean the old-time equivalent of bringing a girl to your dorm to make her swoon over your amateur guitar-skills). The room is visible but not accessible, so keep your fantasy to yourself.
Suggested duration: 2-3 hours. Visit www.historicenvironment.scot for tickets, opening times and more information.
inchdrewer castle
Overlooking the Banff Bay is this 16th century tower house, the main stronghold of Clan Ogilivy, from 1557 until 1836. The Ogilvies were Royalists, those loyal to the king of Scotland, which made them easy targets for the Covenanters, those who were sleeping around behind the king’s back, with the Roman Catholic Church no less. It’s all fun and games until someone gets murdered, and that someone was George Ogilvy, the 3rd Earl of Banff, who was murdered in 1713; his body was stuffed in the walls (in the same manner as the lady at Fyvie castle - perhaps the same killer’s calling card?) and the castle was burnt to the ground. Rebuilt then damaged again in the Jacobite rising of 1745, it rotted away and was recorded “uninhabitable” in 1836. Ghosts, however, have far lower standards for habitation - it is reported that the castle is haunted by the ghost of George, the 3rd Earl of Banff, as well as a lady masquerading in the form of a white dog, for some reason. Take a quick look before George mistakes you for a Covenanter.
Suggested duration: 30 minutes.
findlater castle
Perched on 50 foot high cliff made of quartz (“findlater” meaning “white cliff”) is this castle, the seat of the Earls of Findlater and Seafield. It was first mentioned in 1246 and refortified in 1260 by King Alexander III to prepare for a Viking invasion. Even the high wall was no match for the Vikings, who conquered and held the castle for a few years but Vikings can’t sit down for long without invading things so they eventually left the castle to ruin. It was repaired by Walter Ogilvy (who lived at nearby Inchdrewer) in the 1450’s, then passed to Sir John Gordon (son of the 4th Earl of Huntly from nearby Huntly Castle) in 1560. He didn’t hold the castle for long as he tried to rebel against Mary Queen of Scots, but was defeated in a battle at nearby Aberdeen and executed. Just a half-mile walk from the parking lot is an observation point. It is not recommended to descent beyond this point to the castle. The grounds are very unstable, the trail is slippery; anything that goes awry will send you 50 foot down the cliffside. Plus the threat of vikings - you never know! If you’re going to take a risk hike west to Sunnyside Beach for sunset, much more worth breaking a leg.
Suggested duration: 30 minutes. Visit www.discovercullen.com for opening times and more information.
STAY THE NIGHT IN: ELGIN
DAY 2: Casks & Castles Part 2 (Morayshire - South)
macallan distillery
The uniquely small copper stills at Macallan ensure that more whiskey comes into contact with the copper, which sounds like it would be dangerous to drink, but actually helps to concentrate the flavor in small batches and ensure a higher quality product. Macallan is the second most popular single malt in the world behind Glenfiddich and before Glenlivet, all three of which you will have the opportunity to sample in today’s itinerary - god help you. In 2001, British politician Michael Martin chose The Macallan official scotch of the Speaker of the House of Commons - no wonder nothing gets done in the House of Commons - though he claims that he doesn’t drink and based his choice on smell alone (even more evidence that politicians are full of shit). Macallan also made a cameo appearance in the James Bond film Skyfall in which Bond toasts and nemesis Silva toast to the females in their lives. If only Bond could keep a woman around as long as he keeps a whiskey around; good husbands are the real heroes.
Tour duration: 60 minutes. Visit www.themacallan.com for bookings, opening times and more information.
BONUS: speyside cooperage
You can thank the cask-makers at Speyside, who produce about 150,000 casks per year, for much of the whiskey you’ve sampled or will sample in the immediate area and beyond. The cask is the most overlooked element of the whiskey production and yet the most important; the whiskey sits in a cask for at least three years before it’s released into the wild; only oak can prevent any leaks while allowing the whiskey to breathe and mature. Cask-making has been practiced since prehistoric times, which means “people” found a way to make good whiskey, before they found a way to form a civilization, which shows that we’re just a bunch of drunks at heart. You don’t have to actually thank the coopers but the next time you have way too much to drink, just think of the coopers.
Suggested duration: 30 minutes. Visit www.speysidecooperageky.com for opening times and more information.
glenfidditch distillery
Translating to “valley of the deer” in Gaelic (so that explains the logo), Glenfidditch is a single malt whisky founded in 1886 by William Grant, with the first batch being produced on Christmas Day, 1887 (a very great day for Santa, a bad day for anyone expecting presents). Glenfidditch originally became popular because it was one of the few distilleries that was able to meet a huge demand for whisky when Prohibition ended (realistically, they would’ve been happy with anything… even Evan Williams).
Tour duration: 60 minutes. Visit www.glenfiddich.com for bookings, opening times and more information.
Balvenie castle
Built in the 12th century as the residence of Clan Comyn, the castle was passed to the Black Douglas family, those most opposed to James II, through the marriage of the heiress in 1362 to the 3rd Earl of Douglas, Archibald “the grim” (how would you like being married to someone nicknamed “the grim?”). His son James was nicknamed “the gross” which probably didn’t do much good for his self-esteem growing up, but being named Lord of Balvenie, in 1408, probably helped. Or maybe not; he was possibly complicit in the murder of his brother William by James II, thus becoming the 7th Earl of Douglas (Coincidence? I think not.) After his death, hostilities continued between James II and the Black Douglases, culminating in their defeat of the Douglas’s, by the clans loyal to James II (including the Earl of Huntly, from Huntly Castle) whom the spoils were divided between (how come he gets the castle?).
Suggested duration: 60 minutes. Visit www.historicenvironment.scot for tickets, opening times and more information.
auchindoun castle
Built in the 15th century for John Stewart, the son of James II, this castle changed hands numerous times, first to the Ogilvies (see: Inchdrewer Castle) then to the Gordons (see: Huntly Castle). Sir Adam Gordon was loyal to Mary Queen of Scots, in contrast to his neighbors, the Forbes (see: Tolquhon Castle) who supported James VI. “Sir” Gordon tried to seize the Forbes’ Corgarff Castle when the men weren’t home, but John Forbes’ wife Margaret refused to surrender, shooting one of the men in the knee, though she was probably aiming for his testicles. In response, “Sir” Gordon burnt down the castle, killing Margaret and all the children and servants (boys will be boys). The Gordons rebuilt the castle, but then got into another conflict with the MacKintosh Clan (which sounds like a gang of unruly boys) who destroyed the castle. And who should come back to reclaim the ruined castle but the Ogilvies, who did a good job fixing up the castle but didn’t do a good job surviving wars, leaving the castle abandoned yet again. After the restoration of Charles II to power, the castle was returned to the Gordons, who didn’t enjoy it very long, judging by the looks of the castle now.
Suggested duration: 60 minutes. Visit www.historicenvironment.scot for opening times and more information.
BONUS: ballindaloch Castle
If only all their clans hadn’t meddled in national conflicts, all of their ruined castles could have looked like this one, the home of the MacPherson-Grants. Although it was fashionable to have your castle change hands, either through gifting or forced gifting (violent seizure) there has always been a MacPherson-Grant at Ballindaloch… and there always will be. It was built on the 15th century on a cow meadow instead of a more defensive position nearby all because the Laird of Ballindaloch heard a voice telling him to build it here, in essence, “build it, they will come.” (probably the first signs of schizophrenia but it all worked out for the best anyway). Even though nobody was brutally murdered here, the castle is said to be haunted by the Green Lady as well as James Grant, the British general who lived here and famously fought in the American Wars of Independence, though they are both harmless (and possibly an item!). Take ample time touring the castle, its character both historic and current, most evidently, in the library and dining room.
Suggested duration: 60 minutes. Visit www.ballindallochcastle.co.uk for opening times and more information.
glenlivet distillery
First crafted by George Smith in 1822, Glenlivet was first distilled illicitly, like many of the Scottish whiskeys, to avoid taxation, but it still received plenty of representation. Word had spread, culminating in King George IV, who came to Scotland on official business, asking to try some Glenlivet (official business definitely being a pretense). Possibly related to this experience, whisky tax laws were changed and Smith wanted to become the first legal distiller in the area. He was threatened with violence so he had to pack a gun with him at all times, furthering the correlation between whiskey-drinking and general bad-assery. Brand recognition was taken to the next level when Charles Dickens recommended it to a friend (“please sir, may I have some more?). After George passed on, his son, who was studying to become a lawyer, said “fuck this bullshit” and commandeered the operation. He was the one that added the word “the” before “Glenlivet Whisky” to distinguish from knockoffs. Might as well take out “Glenlivet” and just call it The Whisky.
Tour duration: 75 minutes. Visit www.maltwhiskydistilleries.com for bookings, opening times and more information.
More: BALVENIE, glen grant, aberlour, & glen farclas DISTILLERIES
Today’s itinerary covers the top three single-malt whiskeys not only in the region but in the world at large, but say you’re thirsting for something more alternative instead, or in addition (more power to you) you have plenty of options. Balvenie Distillery, near its namesake castle, was started by William Grant, who double fisted as the founder of Glenfiddich as well. North of Macallan, is Glen Grant Distillery, popularized under the helm of James “The Major” Grant, who was very innovative, being the first to install electric lighting and slender stills in his distillery as well as being the first guy in the area to own a car, though he loses the innovation cred for passing the distillery on to his male grandson, bypassing three probably bad-ass whisky-infused daughters. Aberlour Distillery, located between Macallan and Ballindaloch Castle, is notable because its founder, James Fleming, is buried in a cemetery nearby, probably to give him first dibs on the angels share (you’ve had enough Ghost of Mr. Fleming). Finally, a short drive southwest from Aberlour is Glen Farclas Distillery. It was started by Robert Hay, possibly as far back as 1791, bought out by John Grant in 1865 and then his son George, before his widow Elsie took over (there’s that innovation cred right there). So much to drink, so few brain cells.
STAY THE NIGHT in: ELGIN
DAY 3: Casks & Castles Part III (Elgin & Nairnshire)
BONUS: glen moray distillery
Robert Thorne & Sons, who managed Aberlour Distillery after its first owner James Fleming’s death, started their own distillery at Glen Moray in 1897. Apparently they chugged more than they could swallow, because in the process of running Glen Moray, a fire destroyed much of Aberlour, so they had to shift their focus on rebuilding that distillery. Glen Moray, as a result, didn’t receive the requisite love and attention it needed to flourish, so it shut down in 1910. Just when it was starting to lose hope in ever finding love again, it was purchased by Glenmorangie in the 1920’s who helped it flourish to this day. Thorne & Sons were probably all like hey girl come back to us, and Glen Moray was probably all like, I don’t need you, I found a new man to take care of me. Snaps fingers.
Tour duration: 60 minutes. Visit www.glenmoray.com for bookings, opening times and more information.
BONUS: benromach distillery
Ben Romach (which sounds like the name of a good-looking and bearded solo pop-singer with lots of soul and a great voice, but whose songs have little structure and all sound essentially the same) was started by Duncan McCallum and FW Brickman in 1898. They had previously worked as a whisky distiller and a whisky salesman, respectively, and they probably figured that if they were to combine their talents, they could take the whisky world by storm. Unfortunately, they picked a wrong time to get started, which was at the outset of the industry-wide depression in 1898; they quickly ran out of cash from making and not selling, shutting down in 1900. Since the distillery infrastructure was already there (and any potential whisky is a terrible thing to waste) the distillery was reopened in 1911 and changed owners multiple times, until it was purchased by Gordon and MacPhail in 1997, and reopened in 1998 with with Charles, Prince of Wales present (probably could’ve used a shot after what happened to Princess Diana the year before).
Tour duration: 60 minutes. Visit www.benromach.com for bookings, opening times, and more information.
brodie castle
The first record of a Brodie was in 1285, unfortunately being the death of Malcom, thane of Brodie. It is believed that he lived in this castle but the castle can’t be dated that far back without taking it apart and with all the ruined castles in Scotland, it’s nice when you see one that's still in pretty good shape. The oldest known part of the castle is the southwest tower which dates way back to 1567, when Alexander, 12th Brodie of Brodie (do you even brodie, brodie?) became involved in a rebellion against Mary Queen of Scots, that was quashed. Alexander was punished (it was their idea!) with the seizure of the castle but it was returned under the assumption that Alexander (bad boy) had learned his lesson. His predecessor however, also Alexander, the 15th laird, was one of the signees of the National Covenant, to uphold the law of the Catholic Church under assault by the Protestant king, Charles I (don’t tread on me religion). At first, this seemed like the good move (Charles was deposed and executed), but his son, Charles II was restored to power in 1660, and Alexander (bad boy!) was punished with a big fine for having signed the covenant. Fortunately, the Brodies picked the winning horse, the House of Hannover, in the Jacobite risings of 1715 and 1745, against those who wanted a return to the Catholic Stuarts, who were deposed in the 1688 Glorious Revolution. Things were pretty quiet for the next few centuries, which allowed the various Brodies of Brodie to make various changes to the castle over the years. The sky’s the limit they must have said, without regard for budgetary constraints, and the castle eventually had to be handed to National Trust in 1980, for the sake of preservation. So while you won’t find any Brodies here, you will find a unique blend of architectural styles old and new, evident in the contrast between the medieval entrance and guard room and the modern library and kitchen.
Suggested duration: 60 minutes. Visit www.nts.org.uk for opening times and more information.
rait castle
Granted to the Mackintosh clan by William the Lion in 1185, this castle remained in Mackintosh hands until two generations later, when the Mackintosh heir, a young boy named Angus, in what sounds like the plot of a medieval version of Home Alone, had to defend the castle from the invading Cummings Clan (if Home Alone ended with the burglars winning). Then the Cummings, in a move they probably thought was genius, changed their names to De Rait, likely so that if anyone questioned their claims to the land, they could say, “of course it’s our land, we have the same name as the castle!” If the de Raits seem like total scumbags it’s because they probably were; they spared no dignity in their support of English king Edward I in attempt to gain favor and get a bunch of titles. They were opposed to Robert the Bruce’s claim to the throne of Scotland, as opposed to the Mackintosh clan, so you can bet when Robert the Bruce came to power the Mackintosh clan were quick to remind Robert of the de Rait’s opposition. In a plot that can only be compared to the “Red Wedding” scene in Game of Thrones, the de Raits invited the Mackintoshes over for dinner in an attempt to clear the air (the air being the violent takeover of their former castle) except the de Raits planned on murdering the Mackintoshes during the toast. The de Rait daughter however was in love with the Mackintosh boy, and she didn’t wish to see him harmed, so she told him about her family’s plot and of course, the Mackintosh boy told his pops about it. Instead of just replying “will unfortunately not be able to attend” the Mackintoshes came prepared to exact revenge and slaughtered the de Raits just before the toast. The de Rait chief, however, fled the scene and knowing his daughter was the mole, chased her into her bedroom. She tried to jump out the window, but not before the chief cut off her hands and pushed her out of the window; she fell to her death and her handless specter is said to haunt the castle grounds to this day… and you thought you had daddy issues. At least revenge was had. If you have any further conflicts with the de Raits, take it up with their kin, American singer Bonnie Raitt.
Suggested duration: 30 minutes.
cawdor castle & gardens
In William Shakespeare’s Macbeth, Cawdor is said to be Macbeth’s castle, when in actuality, Macbeth died over 300 years before the castle was built. A post-Shakespeare historian had changed the original location of Cromarty to Cawdor because “it sounded better,” which tells you how much faith you can put in recorded history. The legit first thane of Cawdor was appointed by William the Lion in 1180, while the second thane was officially confirmed by Robert the Bruce for a small price (call in the next 30 minutes and get a free tote!) It wasn’t until the era of the 3rd thane of Cawdor, William, that the castle was built, in 1370, based on specific instructions he received in a dream (if you build it, they will come… and see you standing there without your pants on). Wherever his donkey came to rest, that is where the castle would be built; the donkey rested under a tree so William literally built his castle around the tree (instead of, you know, next to it or something). Quite miraculously, the tree still stands on the ground floor in the Hawthorne Room, though the tree died in 1372 and it wasn’t even a Hawthorne tree (though a tree by any other name would be just as tree-like). John, the 8th thane of Cawdor, died young, leaving an infant daughter as the only heir. But unlike young Angus of Rait Castle, she didn’t really have a sporting chance at defending it. But instead of just seizing Cawdor the would-be ‘seizures’ wanted to keep things legal, relatively, and decided to kidnap the infant Cawdor girl and marry her to their son, John Campbell; they at least had the semi-decency to wait until she was 12. All things considered (arranged child marriage and all) she seemed like she had a decent life at Inveraray Castle, and John seemed like a pretty decent guy - he is said to have killed his brother-in-law (there’s more to the story) after he tried to kill his sister for not bearing him any children. John and his now-older but pretty young still bride, Muriel, went to claim Cawdor Castle, but were met for battle by Muriel’s four uncles. Two of the uncles died and the other two fled (she was probably happier to end up with the inadvertent child-abductor turned lover, then the four probably creepy uncles anyway). Unfortunately John was shot to death shortly after as a result of an inter-clan rivalry. The castle mostly avoided conflict until 1645 when it was attacked by a royalist army fresh off defeating a Covenanter army just a few miles away (the Campbells were Presbyterian and so they were sympathetic to the Covenanter cause). Cawdor, however, didn’t sustain any damage because of the magical properties of the tree inside (no further explanation needed). Today, Cawdor is one of the most visited castles in Northern Scotland due to its extensive history as well as its extensive updating and thoughtfully-planned decor.
Suggested duration: 60 minutes. Visit www.cawdorcastle.com for opening times and more information.
fort george
Built to prevent further Jacobite risings, after the rising of 1745, this star-shapped fort, based on a design by Robert Skinner, was built on the site of a previous fort, which was built after the rising of 1715 to prevent further risings (though clearly, the last wasn’t too successful), which was itself built on the site of a citadel controlled by Cromwell’s forces, which was itself built on the site of a medieval castle - suffice to say, there’s precedent for establishing a fort here. And so far it’s had a successful run, nobody having attacked, yet (organizes long-overdue Jacobite uprising, gets instantly killed). It’s now the home of the fearsome Black Watch (you can learn more about them at the Black Watch Castle in Perth, Northern Scotland - Part 3) and the Highlander Museum; not the movie but the military history of the Highlanders - sure, they didn’t have powers, but they did gave their lives for the… (yawns, where’s the real Highlander museum?) The top of the ramparts are also a great place to see dolphins for those in need of stimuli.
Suggested duration: 30 minutes. Visit www.historicenvironment.scot for tickets, opening times and more information.
elgin cathedral
Consecrated in 1224 with a grant from Alexander II, this cathedral, like everything else in medieval Scotland, burned down shortly after it was built, in 1270. Maybe it was a blessing in disguise, because the second cathedral was even more beautiful than before. Unfortunately, this cathedral burnt down too, when a “flame” war erupted between Bishop Alexander Bur and Alexander Stewart, Earl of Buchan, and son of future king, Robert II (there ain’t enough room in this town for two Alexanders). In reality, it was due to Stewart’s marital infidelity and Bur’s public shaming of him. But you probably shouldn’t shame a guy who is nicknamed the “Wolf of Badenach,” unless you’re looking for trouble in the form of burning down the church and most of the town, specifically. Adding insult to injury, the cathedral was looted by a third Alexander, Macdonald, in 1402. He even tried to come back a year later to loot the cathedral again, but he messed with the wrong Alexander, Bur, the bishop, who was waiting for him at the church’s gate (was he waiting there the whole year?), and shamed Macdonald out of town (he didn’t have a predatory nickname, so he was safe for public shaming). The cathedral was extensively refurbished again, only to be destroyed again, not by fire but by father time. The cathedral was abandoned in 1560 due to the Scottish Reformation and the central tower collapsed in 1711, cementing the demise. Steps were finally take to preserve what’s left of it in the early 1900’s. You can climb the north tower for bird eye views of the ruin.
Suggested duration: 60 minutes. Visit www.historicenvironment.scot for tickets, opening times and more information.
spynie palace
Starting in the 12th century, Spynie served as the seat of the bishops of Moray, until the late 17th century, when conflicts erupted between the church and the crown of Scotland. In the 14th century, Alexander Steward, aka “the wolf of Badenach,” fresh off the burning of Elgin Cathedral, seized Spynie Castle for personal use. He is said to have mellowed with age and was later appointed warden of Spynie by his brother, King Robert III (it’s good to have brothers in high places). The most prominent castle feature of the castle is David’s Tower, which began construction under orders of Bishop David Steward in the mid-15th century. He’s said to have commissioned the tower out of fear of reprisal from the Earl of Huntly, who he had previously banished for refusing to pay his taxes (don’t hate the player, hate the game). The palace was frequented by James I-IV and Mary Queen of Scots at times of relative peace, but not long after, Mary was arrested, then her newlywed husband James Hepburn (who definitely didn’t sign up for this) sought refuge here, with his brother, Patrick Hepburn, being the resident bishop at the time. The bishop’s sons turned on Hepburn (so much for the famed “highland hospitality”), which resulted in Hepburn killing one of the sons and briefly holding the castle before being imprisoned. After the Wars of the Covenant, the palace became the residence of the Protestant bishops, and shortly after, returned to the Catholic bishops, and shortly after, left empty, with all bishops relieved of their position. (If you can’t share it then none of you get to live here!) It then descended into its current state but still feels majestic from the top of the tower.
Suggested duration: 60 minutes. Visit www.historicenvironment.scot for tickets, opening times and more information.
duffus castle
In the 1100’s, the region of Morayshire was governed by Angus, a partial descendant of Macbeth. His grandfather was Macbeth’s stepson (so he was like Macbath’s great great bastard stepchild). Nevertheless, he probably let this partial connection to royalty get to his head, as he led a rebellion against the king of Scotland at the time, David I, for the independence of Morayshire. But as you know, Morayshire is really not far enough from central Scotland to have a decent shot at independence, so the uprising was crushed pretty quickly, but David learned his lesson and started giving away land in Morayshire to some of his allies in exchange for them maintaining the peace. One of those allies was Hugh de Freskyn, who built Duffus Castle in 1150, which was passed over in 1270 to Reginald le Chen through marriage. Apparently he didn’t get the memo, re: the previous failed revolts in the area, as he was a supporter of Edward I of England. The castle was destroyed by the army led by Andrew Murray, loyal to Robert the Bruce, king of Scotland, in 1297, on his way to join up with William Wallace for the Battle of Stirling Bridge. The castle was taken back by English loyalists before it was captured again by Scottish loyalists. When the last owner of the castle, James Sutherland, 2nd lord of Duffus, passed away in 1705, his family decided it wasn’t be the same without him and moved to nearby Duffus House, leaving the castle to ruin, but it’s still pretty well intact and it’s a perfect example of a “motte and bailey” (raised and fortified) style castle.
Suggested duration: 30 minutes.