DAY 1: Precious Stones and Worthless Lives (Royal Mile)
edinburgh castle & castle rock
A 350 million year old volcanic plug, Castle Rock has provided a significant defensive advantage to its many inhabitants over the years, the first being as far back as 850 BCE, though they didn’t think to build a castle on it (savages) until at least as far back as the reign of King David I in the 12th century. It continued to serve as the Scottish royal residence until the Union of the Crowns (of Scotland and England) under James VI, who was all like, “peace out, bitches… I’m moving to England.” It has since been used as a military barracks and prison, due to its difficulty to invade or escape, and now as a museum, which is invaded daily by throngs of tourists. On the south side, you can tour the Royal Apartments. Above the entrance, you can see the initials ‘MAH’ which stand for Mary and Henry, the last full-time residents. Once inside check out Laich Hall with a beautifully restored crest above the fireplace. Next door is the bedroom where all the action happened, and by action we mean the birth of James VI, a birth which was said to be particularly painful (which could probably be said for any birth really), so her “doctors” used magic to transfer the pain to one of her servants (the marvels of modern-day magic). Next up is the Crown Room and Royal Palace, where you can see the Stone of Destiny, a rather unassuming block of sandstone, on which the royals sit during their coronation, last used by Queen Elizabeth of Great Britain in 1953, and the Crown Jewels, the oldest of their kind in all of Great Britain. Comprised of a scepter, a sword, and a crown (where the jewels at?), they were first used all together at the coronation of Mary Queen of Scots. Also, in the same wing is the Great Hall, used for ceremonial purposes and parliament meetings, just a great hall overall. In the north side of the castle is St. Margaret’s Chapel, the oldest structure of the castle and of Edinburgh in general. It was commissioned by King David to honor his mom Queen Margaret who later became a saint after her death (you only appreciate things after they’re gone). Since there is no peace without war, right next to the chapel is the Mons Meg cannon, gifted to James II in 1457. Famously fired to celebrate the marriage of Mary Queen of Scots to Henry Stewart, it was capable of firing a 550-lb. cannonball two miles away. Tourists tend to stick their heads in the hole of the cannon but you may want to hold off, just in case there’s a cannonball still inside that happens to randomly fire right when you stick your head in - you never know! Speaking of cannons, there’s a “time cannon” that’s fired off everyday at 1 PM from the nearby Half Moon Battery, a medieval practice that allowed distant ships to synchronize their watches daily. Certainly, ship captains are all outfitted with iPhones nowadays, but it’s a unique shoutout to the days of yore (so keep your ears peeled at 1 PM, wherever you are). Finally, at center of the castle, is the Scottish National War Memorial, in honor of 150,000+ Scots who died in WWI. Take advantage of the free half-hour tour, tour the rest on your own, then soak in the views of Edinburgh.
Suggested duration: 90 minutes. Visit www.edinburghcastle.scot for tickets, opening times and more information.
the witches well & The witchery
Obscured by the grandiosity of Edinburgh Castle is this cast iron fountain (just to the right when the castle pavilion opens up) that commemorates the large amount of Scottish women who were accused of witchcraft, and unduly executed between the 15th and 18th centuries (witches apparently don’t have the right to an attorney). Of all countries falling under the “spell” of witchcraft panic, Scotland was the most extreme in its aversion, having executed somewhere between 4,000-6,000 women. A significant portion of these executions happened under the reign of James VI, who basically blamed every negative occurrence on witchcraft - lost my keys? kill some witches. constipated? kill some witches. can’t sleep? witches. too many witches? witches. rainy day? kill the witches, no literally. On a return voyage from Denmark, the ship carrying James had to turn back. James blamed the weather on a coven of witches from a small village in North Berwick and subsequently had 70 village women executed without trial; most of the ladies were just practicing herbalism or were mentally challenged. In the late 1800s, Sir Patrick Geddes designed the fountain in honor of the thousands of lives needless taken away. 300 women were burned at this site alone, so pour out some water for my homegirls. Better yet, pour out some tea at the nearby Witchery restaurant, with a lavish decor paying homage to witchcraft; reserve ahead.
Suggested duration: 5 minutes. Visit www.thewitchery.com for opening times and more information.
bonus: camera obscura & world of illusions
Part of Patrick Geddes redevelopment of the area, this attraction was established in 1835, making it the oldest tourist attraction in Edinburgh. It’s nothing unique to Edinburgh and more geared for children but who doesn’t love a good bit of whimsical fun, if only to mix it up after all the witch burning. There’s a hall of mirrors, a vortex tunnel and some other amazing Instagram opportunities. Finally, there’s a rooftop with telescopes so you see spy on people changing in their own homes - just a good bit of whimsical fun!
Suggested duration: 60 minutes. Visit www.camera-obscura.co.uk for tickets, opening times and more information.
gladstone’s land
That apartment complex across the street that you were spying into with a telescope, hoping to see someone getting changed, is actually a restored tenement house from the 17th century, so nobody lives there anymore, but it’s perfectly preserved to give you an idea of what life was like back then. The property was purchased and redeveloped by a wealthy merchant, Thomas Gledstane, “gled” meaning hawk, hence the bronze hawk with the rat in its talon, in case you didn’t know hawks are not to be messed around with. The apartments were rented out to tenants from a variety of backgrounds so you can see a diverse mix of 17th century lives.
Average duration: 60 minutes. Visit www.introducingedinburgh.com for opening times and more information.
heart of midlothian
Not to be mistaken for the Scottish football club this heart-shaped mosaic was built into the pavement in place of the 15th century Old Tolbooth, a city hall, infamous prison, and one of several public execution sites (you can’t have just one). The locals commonly spit on the heart as they pass by out of loathing for the deplorable conditions said to have plagued the prisoners, many petty and innocent, though some were indeed ruthless murderers who didn’t really have a right to complain if it was a little nippy in their cell.
Suggested duration: 5 minutes.
st. giles cathedral
Dedicated to St. Giles, the patron saint of Edinburgh, this cathedral was built in the 14th century on the site of a previous sanctuary, possibly dating back to the 1100’s. It originally housed the arm of St. Giles with his diamond-adorned ring finger (he said yes!) but it was eventually plundered and lost. If you’re thirsting for remains, you can visit those of John Knox, leader of the Reformation, who became the first Protestant minister of the cathedral in 1559. He’s buried quite unceremoniously in the parking lot beneath spot 23, but at least there’s a statue of him in the central nave. It’s technically not a cathedral, as there’s no longer a sitting bishop here, but when you have chorus of instrument-wielding angels across the ceiling of the Thistle Chapel who really needs the bishop anyway?
Suggested duration: 30 minutes. Visit www.introducingedinburgh.com for opening times and more information.
real mary king’s close
Walking down a sketchy alleyway in a foreign country is generally not advisable and this alleyway is no different but not for the ordinary reason of trying to avoid being raped or murdered. Rather, this alley is reportedly haunted, with numerous paranormal sightings reported over the years. Scientists have deduced that due to the alley’s nearness to the very toxic Nor Loch marsh, the gas from the marsh leaks into the alley and combined with the dark environs, induces hallucinations. While there’s no guarantee of thrill, you’ll at least feel pretty chill in this alleyway, named after a merchant who lived here, high out of her mind, in the 1600’s.
Tour duration: 60 minutes. Visit www.realmarykingsclose.com for booking, opening times and more information.
edinburgh vaults
Along the length of the South Bridge are 19 arches subdivided into 120 separate vaults, being intended to be used as workshops when the bridge opened in 1788, but as you know, humans can’t have nice things, and the vaults were never flood-proofed. This led to a mass exodus starting in 1795, and the vaults were taken over by illicit drinking, gambling and prostitution operations. All good fun until there’s murder involved and there was plenty of murder involved. The infamous serial killers Burke and Hare who could’ve doubled as a law firm were believed to have murdered people here; they would then sell the bodies to science to make due (the struggle is real). In the late 1800’s, the vaults were blocked off with rubble and were lost until a rugby player discovered the entrance to the tunnel, which he later used to help a Romanian rugby player evade Romanian secret police, during the 1989 Romanian uprising, before spending years removing rubble with the help of his son. The tunnel is now used for ghost tours, pop up events, like dinners or weddings, and killer raves - literally, you never know if you’ll run into Burke and Hare, attorneys at law.
Tour duration: 1-2 hours. Visit www.mercattours.com for booking, opening times and more information.
STAY THE NIGHT IN: edinburgh
DAY 2: Stag Party (Princes Street)
palace of holyrood & holyrood abbey ruins
At the other end of the Royal Mile, opposing Edinburgh Castle, this palace is the official residence of the British monarch, since the 16th century. The queen is only here for one week of the whole year; for the rest of the year, you’re free to make yourself at home. Eat a bucket of fried chicken in the Royal Dining Room, assume your rightful position in the Throne Room, where you can lash out at lowly servants for no apparent reason then Netflix and chill in the Queen or King’s Bedchamber. Of course you won’t be able to do any of these things without being escorted from the premises but at least you won’t be murdered for overstepping boundaries, as is what happened to David Rizzio in the Supper Room. The personal secretary to Mary Queen of Scots was said to have maybe Netflix and chill-ed with the queen, prompting the queen’s husband, Lord Darnley, to have him stabbed 56 times for good measure while Mary was forced to watch, probably ruining a perfectly good supper. You can still see faint blood stains on the floor. Also visit the Outer Chamber, where the Catholic Queen Mary hosted Scotland’s first Protestant minister, John Knox, for a lively debate, that thankfully didn’t end in violent bloodshed. Let’s end this tour on a high note and head outside to the ruins of Holyrood Abbey, once the largest of all the abbeys in Scotland, built in honor of a miracle. When 12th century King David I was thrown off a horse in front of an angry stag, he saw a cross on the stag's head (probably antlers but okay) and the stag didn’t kill him which is a real miracle; deers are more likely to kills humans in the wild than all other animals, combined. You gotta give credit where it’s due. Thanks God!
Suggested duration: 2 hours. Visit www.rct.uk for tickets, opening times and more information.
bonus: old calton cemetery
With burials dating as far back as 1718, this cemetery packs plenty of history (and dead bodies) in its tiny confines, expanding to the adjacent New Calton Cemetery in 1820. Among the various highlights (if you can reduce dead bodies to tourist highlights), is the Political Martyrs’ Monument, honoring five men who sacrificed their citizenship campaigning for parliamentary reform, after hearing about all the good stuff that happened as a result of the French Revolution, in attempting to avoid the actual revolution. Big mistake! They were shipped off to a penal colony, from which they eventually escaped but died elsewhere, unceremoniously. Also buried here is the famed philosopher and Scotsman David Hume. As an athiest, Hume was rumored to have been in league with the devil, so after his death his friends spent eight nights (probably drunkenly) firing pistols into the night sky to prevent the devil from claiming his soul. (That’ll teach him!) And when you boil it down to its core, that is what friendship is all about, after all.
Suggested duration: 30-60 minutes.
National monument
Referred to as “Athens of the north,” Calton Hill is home to the National Monument of Scotland, honoring the soldiers who died in the Napoleonic Wars. It sort of looks like they were trying to build something akin to the Parthenon, but ran out of funds halfway through - except that’s exactly what happened. But at least it’s unique, even if it was viciously mocked upon “completion,” in 1822. Also worth visiting is the Nelson Monument, honoring Vice Admiral Horatio Nelson, who gave his life in the victory at the Battle of Trafalgar (if you’re going to give your life in battle, at least make sure victory is secured). A “time ball” was installed on the tower, to drop in conjunction with the “time cannon” at Edinburgh Castle, so that departing sailors could set their watches before taking off (not dropping during New Year seems like a wasted opportunity.) The tower isn’t worth climbing; equally great views abound.
Suggested duration: 30 minutes. Visit www.introducingedinburgh.com for more information.
national portrait gallery
In early 19th century Scotland there were numerous calls to establish a gallery of portraits akin to the National Portrait Gallery in London. Unfortunately, none of the people calling for the establishment had any money. They tried hitting up the London gallery for an advance of their allowance but were swiftly denied. Like all startup operations, they found some wealthy sucker to pay for everything - building and all - and the gallery was established in 1882, starting with a small portrait collection owned by collector David Erskine and blossoming to a collection of over 65,000 works today, ranging from the Renaissance to modernity, mostly of Scottish hands. It’s hard to appreciate paintings of people’s faces when you don’t know who they are, so let’s begin with the folks that you know, or at least should know, after a few days of touring. There are two portraits of Mary, Queen of Scots; you can see the pain in her eyes, after the painful end to her pregnancy and the painful end to her side-piece David Rizzio. Speaking of births, there’s a portrait of her son, James VI of Scotland and I of England, uniter of crowns and mass-witch murderer. Also worth seeing is the oldest portrait in the gallery, of James IV, painted in 1507. Then you can round out your visit with some more familiar faces, portraits of Scottish actors Tilda Swinton, Billy Connoly, and Robbie Coltrane by John Byrne, and Alan Cumming (Christian Hook).
Suggested duration: 90 minutes. Visit www.nationalgalleries.org for opening times and more information.
scott monument
What you may have thought was a monument that the people of Scotland commissioned in honor of their awesome selves is actually a monument to the Scottish author Sir Walter Scott. It’s the second largest monument commemorating a writer in the world, after the Jose Julian Marti Statue in Havana, Cuba (who actually had a bigger pen-is up for debate). A series of twirling staircases, 288 steps in total, takes you to the top. There are breaks and views along the way but save your view-petite for the view of Edinburgh from the top. At the bottom is a statue of the author, famous for Rob Roy, Ivanhoe, and Heart of Midlothian, (based loosely on the Old Tolbooth prison and a riot that erupted outside of it), along with his dog Maida. There is a total of 78 statues on the monument, featuring figures from Scott’s novels, and esteemed writers and artists of his day. The monument is based on a design by George Meikle Kemp, who submitted his design under the name “John Morvo,” believing that he was not qualified enough for the job, which just goes to show you: it never hurts to apply. Unfortunately, he didn’t live to see his work in completion as he drowned in the river, on a foggy night, on the way home from working on the monument, just months before completion of the four-plus year project, which just goes to show you: if you lie on your resume, you’ll die, just like you deserve.
Suggested duration: 60 minutes. Visit www.edinburghmuseums.org.uk for more information.
scottish national gallery
Opened to the public in 1859, this museum features both Scottish and international art from the Renaissance to modern day. It’s all housed in a neoclassical building, akin to an ancient Greek temple, a fitting palace to the masterworks that are housed inside. Repping the Renaissance: early Renaissance man Boticelli’s Virgin (creepily) Adoring the Sleeping Christ Child, High Renaissance man Raphael’s Bridgewater Madonna and three works from Spanish Renaissance man El Greco. But don’t sleep on the Baroque duo of Van Dyck (Lomellini Family) and Rubens (the massive Feast of Herod mural). The large-scale murals you’ll find on the 1st floor, including Benjamin West’s Alexander III of Scotland Rescued from the Fury of a Stag, proving once again that stags are an underrated natural threat. Definitely don’t gloss over the Impressionists, represented by Monet (Haystacks), Gaugin (Vision After the Sermon), Degas (Portrait of Diego Martelli), and two works by Cezanne. Rounding out the art history tour is the Romanticism influenced Goya (El Medico). And since you know all about Sir Walter Scott, but don’t know what he looks like, you can check out his portrait by Sir Henry Raeburn. Honorable shout out to Rembrandt, Vermeer, Seurat, and Titian. Just so much art, so little time.
Suggested duration: 90 minutes. Visit www.nationalgalleries.org for opening times and more information.
princes street
You’ve been walking down Princes Street all day, it’s only fitting that you learn a thing or two about Edinburgh’s busiest avenue. It was originally supposed to be called St. Giles Street but St. Giles was the patron saint of lepers and the king at the time, George III, was all like “eww gross” and named it after his two prince sons, hence “princes” but if you say it fast it sounds like “princess” which is probably a more fitting name for a street teeming with retail stores and gardens. Beyond the National Gallery, pay the respects to Wojtek, the Soldier Bear, an Iranian bear who became an Allied soldier during World War II (kind of like Air Bud except going to war instead of playing sports, and also this really happened) then became a celebrity, before finally retiring at the Edinburgh Zoo.
dean village
A taste of the Scottish countryside without leaving the “comfort” of metropolitan Edinburgh, Dean Village is a former grain milling village that still looks like the kind of place where they would mill grains even if they no longer do so. Now it’s just quaint AF and a very desirable residential area. There’s not much to do here other than meander among the picture-perfect cobblestoned streets, and charming villas with views of a surprisingly untouched river running through it. Try to contain excitement - Keep Dean Quaint.
Visit www.introducingedinburgh.com for more information.
STAY THE NIGHT IN: edinburgh
DAY 3: Man Caves, Mass Graves, and Marital Bliss (South Edinburgh)
bonus: gilmerton cove
Underneath a former mining village is a complex of underground tunnels and caverns that was once fashioned into a residence by 18th century blacksmith George Patterson, a man cave in the ultimate sense. Only a brute would live in here, yet somehow he managed to not only have a wife but also convinced her to live with him down here. (“How do you expect me to live in that cave, George? Do you have any idea what our friends will think?”) Not much is known of the unlikely blissful lives they lived down here, other than that one time George got reprimanded by the church for serving liquor down here on the Sabbath. (What better way to celebrate?) Of course, George blamed it on his wife, according to church records. That’s all that we know for sure, though you can’t help but wonder, given the nature of the residence, if Patterson doubled as Batman, or the Scottish 18th century equivalent. Of course, archaeologists have their own theories as to who built the caves, none of which (unfortunately) have to do with aliens. It is believed that the caves predate Patterson, and were used as refuge by the “Coventers” - the people who signed the National Covenant of 1638, opposing the English Stuart dynasty, from meddling in Scottish church affairs. It is also believed that the caves are linked to the once nearby Hellfire Club, formed in 1740, an outlet for typical men, to indulge in things that were frowned upon in normal societal circles, basically a pre-modern day fraternity. An hour-long tour will lead you to your own conclusions - aliens.
Tour duration: 60 minutes. Visit www.gilmertoncove.org.uk for bookings, tour times and more information.
craigmillar castle
In the suburb of Craigmillar is this ruined medieval castle, built between the 14th and 16th centuries by the Preston family, which was then sold to the Gilmour family, before being left to ruin in the 18th century. (I mean, if nobody wants it I’ll definitely take it.) Unfortunately or fortunately rather, it’s a scheduled monument, holding a brief yet important place in the Scottish history book. After her “painful” delivery of James VI, Mary Queen of Scots “fell ill” (queen of drama more like it) and absconded here shortly for recovery. Meanwhile, back in Edinburgh, forces were plotting against her, which would ultimately result in a violent death for her husband, Lord Darnley (he was dying from adultery-induced syphilis anyway so he had it coming) as well as the overthrow and later execution of Mary herself. Interestingly enough, the one who invited her to recover here, Sir Simon Preston, eventually joined forces with her conspirators (with friends like that, who needs enemies, am I right?). There is so much space to explore in this surprisingly-intact castle, but definitely explore the Tower House, with it’s prison cell, great hall and views of the countryside.
Suggested duration: 90 minutes.
dr. neil’s garden & Thomson’s tower
At the base of Arthur’s Seat lies a secret garden expertly cultivated by local Drs. Andrew and Nancy Neil, as a quiet place for their patients to recover, though therapy isn’t free. The patients had to work the land, so basically it was a bait and switch to get cheap labor, but it totally worked out in the end - for us, that is. We get to enjoy the fruit of other people’s labor with a stroll or a seat for meditation or unfocused contemplation. There are plenty of flowers, depending on the season, and a physic garden, of medicinal plants (pass the shrooms, bro!) If you’re unable to find peace in nature and believe that God, the all-mighty, can only be sought in the confines of a man-made religious structure, there’s a church for that, Duddingston Kirk, small but beautiful nevertheless. Save time to explore the nearby Thomson Tower, originally built in 1825 for a local curling club, the “sport” where the skaters sweep the ice, seemingly needlessly, in front of a massive hockey puck, if I had to describe it somehow. The tower was repurposed as an art studio by Reverand John Thomson; he hosted prominent landscape artists of the day for painting the adjacent Duddingston loch.
Suggested duration: 90 minutes. Visit www.drneilsgarden.co.uk for opening times and more information.
arthur’s seat
The tallest peak of the various hills surrounding Edinburgh, Arthur’s Seat, a former volcano, provides the best views of Edinburgh, the countryside, and the sea in the distance. It’s mentioned as a possible location for the mythical Camelot, a suspicion furthered by the prehistoric remains of a fort. However, the fort is more attributable to the Votadini, which sounds like an Italian pasta dish, but is actually an Iron Age Celtic clan. Also, King Arthur isn’t real, but there is some regal history here. The foot of the hill is where 12th century Scottish king David I survived a close encounter of the stag-kind (who’s the deer in the headlights now?), attributing the miracle to God and building Holyrood Abbey (Day 2). Also on the slopes near Holyrood Abbey is where young girls take part in a bathing ritual in the adjacent lochs to make themselves prettier, at the risk of dying of a brain-eating amoeba, unaware that the real beauty was inside them all along. Girls will be girls and boys will be boys; in 1836, a group of boys hunting for rabbits got much more then they bargained for when they found 17 coffins with wooden figures inside, which are believed to be linked to the murders by Burke and Hare attorneys at law (Day 1). But you don’t have to worry about any of this. You’re just here for a relaxed walk. The easiest and most rewarding route is the “red path” from the Holyrood Palace parking lot, bringing you past the ruins of St. Anthony’s chapel. From the top, take the steeper, alternative path down, through Salisbury Crags, then back to the parking lot.
Suggested duration: 2 hours.
national museum of scotland
Formed in 2006 in a merger between the Museum of Scotland and the Royal Museum, this hybrid museum covers a a range of fields, from Scottish culture and history to science and technology, with over 10,000 objects in total. Among the many highlights are the stuffed body of Dolly the sheep, the first successful mammalian clone (which apparently wasn’t successful enough), the Maiden, a misleading name for a device that was the precursor to the guillotine, the Lewis chessmen, a group of very intricately carved walrus-ivory chess-pieces (several walruses were harmed in the making of it), and finally, the 17 wooden dolls that were found by the schoolboys on Arthur’s Seat in 1836, featured along with the theories surrounding the mystery of their significance.
Suggested duration: 90 minutes. Visit www.nms.ac.uk for opening times and more information.
greyfriar’s bobby
In case there was any lingering doubt in the loyalty of dogs, here’s the story of Bobby, a 19th century terrier who spend 14 of his 17 short years on earth needlessly guarding the grave of his deceased owner John Gray, before he died himself, and took his rightful place near his master in the adjacent Greyfriar’s Kirkyard. Locals were moved by the story, and the statue was erected just a year after Bobby’s death, in 1873. Of course, the story has been challenged by critics, because critics are miserable people; they want to make sure everyone else is miserable too. Sure there were many similar dogs living in the yard but let us have our feel good story.
Suggested duration: 10 minutes. Visit www.introducingedinburgh.com for opening times and more information.
greyfriar’s kirkyard
At the most famous burial ground in Edinburgh, you can visit the grave of Greyfriar’s Bobby, the terrier with the wasted potential from the previous stop (you can skip the grave of his master John Gray, who probably didn’t even appreciate all that his dog did for him, if only because he was too dead to notice). There is also the grave of William McGonagall, commemorated as Scotland’s worst poet - harsh. Apparently, his work was so bad that it was good, good enough for him to be buried amongst such esteemed Scotsmen. Speaking of McGonagall, Harry Potter fans will love a visit to the grave of Tom Riddle, an innocent man turned eternal villain by JK Rowling, who clearly must have walked here for inspiration. (When you see the grave of a man named Moody, you’ll start to see all pre-modern British tombstones as names for potential Harry Potter characters.) The kirkyard’s also famous for its place in the crackdown against “Coventers,” those opposed to Stuart England meddling in the Presbyterian Church of Scotland, a period known as “The Killing Time.” Appointed by King Charles II, an otherwise well-to-do Sir George Mackenzie led the charge of rounding up the dissenters, 18,000 in total, imprisoning them, torturing them, and ultimately murdering them. In an ironic twist, Sir Mackenzie was buried in a tomb, “The Black Mausoleum,” adjacent to the burial site of his victims. That all changed in 1998, when a vagrant looking for treasure broke into the tomb. When he uncovered the body, a hole opened in the ground; the man then fell into a cavern, surrounded by bodies, in a mass grave. This must have disturbed these spirits as there have been many reports of unexplained phenomena at the kirkyard ever since, over 500 in total. Many have reported being pushed, pulled, knocked over, or even burned. Some report audio or visual hallucinations, while there’s at least one account of someone being followed by a spirit, all the way back home. The scariest story is what happened to Colin Grant in 2000. An exorcist and minister, he came to perform an exorcism, when he reported being overcome by hundreds of tormented souls. He ran off, and died suddenly of a heart attack just a few weeks later. Obviously all these second-hand accounts and coincidences are not scientific evidence of ghosts, but still...
Suggested duration: 30 minutes. Visit www.greyfriarskirk.com for opening times and more information.
flodden wall
After Scotland’s defeat at the hands of English forces at the Battle of Flodden (1513), and the death of James IV, whose portrait you saw at the National Gallery, Scotland decided to erect a defensive wall around the perimeter of the city to keep the English out. (And make England pay for it! Make Scotland great again!) The English never returned but the wall helped to quell conflicts between government and rebellious Scotsmen, a reminder that any nation’s greatest threat is not external, but internal division.
Suggested duration: 20 minutes. Visit www.introducingedinburgh.com for more information.