DAY 1: Beauty & the Beast
eigergletscher to kleine scheidegg or Alpiglen hike (or vice versa)
Eiger or "ogre" in German is a fitting name for a mountain so unfriendly. You see, ogres were always considered to be fearsome creatures, at least until Shrek came along, making ogres seem more approachable, probably leading to the unnecessary deaths of many unsuspecting woodland children. This mountain, specifically the north face, is squarely in the camp of a pre-Shrek ogre, with the nickname of "mordwand," a play on "norwand" or "north-wall," literally meaning "murder wall." So don't try to cuddle or climb this beast. Once thought to be unsurmountable, which should have served as a warning rather than a challenge, the north ascent has claimed the lives of 64 climbers, the names of whom you can find engraved in a stone, along the hike toward toward Kleine Scheidegg, by the "Fallbodensee" Lake, which sounds like a quaint place to "see" "bodies" "falling," but really translates to something far less innocuous. You can, however, see bodies of intrepid climbers hopefully not falling from the north face, as you hike past Eiger toward this remarkably beautiful valley. The easiest path starts with a train ride to Eigergletscher, for a half-hour walk down to Kleine Scheidegg, where you can take a return train or continue your walk for another hour to Alpiglen, where you can take another return train. For a more strenuous hike uphill (which may be a bit easier on the knees), start with a train ride to Alpiglen and hike to Kleine Scheidegg or Eigergletscher. You'll be happy to know that a restaurant awaits you at either end point.
Estimated duration: 2-4 hours. Visit www.walkingswitzerland.com for more information.
jungfraujoch & Sphinx observatorium
Jungfrau, "virgin" in German, sounds far less imposing than Eiger (cue gross, older men cracking jokes about mounting this peak) but don't let its name deceive you. At an altitude of over 13,000 feet, it would have remained relatively virgin territory, if not for the train from Interlaken or Kleine Scheidegg to the highest train station in Europe, resting atop this peak. So while it's not a virgin any longer (with all the visitors here, you can say she's been around the block), you probably would not have been able to get up here without the train, so don't go around bragging about your conquest. Upon arrival, take the elevator for an even better view at the Sphinx Observatory, the highest observatory in Europe. There's also a post office, which is (you guessed it) the highest post office in Europe and a perfect place to send a postcard (Greetings from Swiss Alps! I hope this postcard inspires some serious jealousy.) You could also hike part of the glacier (enclosed so you don't fall off) and eat at one of several restaurants with panoramic views.
Estimated duration: 4-6 hours. Visit www.jungfrau.ch for opening times and more information.
STAY THE NIGHT IN: grindelwald
DAY 2: The Road Goes Ever on
bonus: first mountain to Grosse Scheidegg hike (or vice-versa)
This is a good hike to attempt if visiting with young children. At 90 minutes, it will be over just around the time the crankiness sets in. Take the gondola from Grindelwald to first, descend to Grosse Scheidegg and take a bus back to Grindelwald. If you're visiting without kids, you're far more likely experience your own bouts of crankiness (without the mood swings of children to distract you from your own mood) but what better way to overcome your emotions than a strenuous ascent along the reverse route - take a bus to Grosse Scheidegg and walk up to First which connects you to the next hike (First to Schynige Platte). The duration of both hikes is eight hours in total, so feel free to skip over this first leg, unless operating on maximum energy and minimum crankiness.
Estimated duration: 1.5-2 hours.
first mountain to schynige platte Hike
If you skipped the previous hike, you can reach First Mountain directly via gondola from Grindelwald. Before you jump right into the hike, you might want to stick around First Mountain, if time allows, for a "sledge ride," a hybrid between a sled and a go kart. The sledges are low to the ground so you can safely drive up or down most hills - it goes without saying, you likely won't survive driving off a cliff, so don't do anything crazy. You'll need your body in top shape for the strenuous yet rewarding journey ahead, past glistening lakes, wild meadows, waterfalls small and large, mountains near and far, and a well-placed hotel with snack-bar.
Estimated duration: 6 hours. Visit www.myswissalps.com for more information.
STAY THE NIGHT IN: grindelwald
DAY 3: Exposed
mannlichen to kleine scheidegg Hike
After two days of hiking, and one especially strenuous hike yesterday, hopefully you can forgive yourself for taking the easy road today. There are two ways to get to the hike's starting point, atop Mount Mannlichen. You could either take a car or bus to the tiny, less-touristy town of Wengen, where you could explore and grab a bite before your ascent, or you could take the ridiculously long, 30-minute gondola ride from Grindelwald Grund, with great birds-eye views of the valley along the way. Once at Mannlichen, take an easy 2-hour hike along the mountain ridge toward Kleine Scheidegg (which you might be familiar with from the Eigergletscher hike), from which point you can take a train back to Grindelwald. The hike can be especially crowded during summer thanks to its relative ease, but it's still worth it for its abundance of flowers. As the proverb says, "he who wants a rose must respect the thorn."
Estimated duration: 2 hours. Visit www.myswissalps.com for more information.
Bonus: gletscherschlucht
Once buried under the Grindewald glacier, this now-exposed ravine, with its rock-side pathways and tunnels, couldn't possibly be any more inviting unless you visit during summer, when the Spidernet opens up, allowing you to climb from one side to the other. It's meant for children but it can also be enjoyed by adults with unfulfilled childhoods.
Suggested duration: 60 minutes. Visit www.myswitzerland.com for more information.
schilthorn
Take a car or bus to Murren, where a cable car connects you to this peak, famous for its appearance in the 1969 James Bond film On Her Majesty's Secret Service. The revolving restaurant at the top was funded to completion in exchange for its use as a filming location and is the only good thing to come from the short George Lazenby Bond era.
Suggested duration: 2 hours. Visit www.chilthorn.ch for opening times and more information.