DAY 1: Precarious Positions (Vic & Guilleries)
espai natural sant miguel del fai
Since monastic living can be quite dull, perhaps these Benedictine monks wanted to add a little thrill to their lives by building their monastery on the side of the cliff. Surprisingly, the monastery has outlasted most of the monks, who are buried in the floor of the monastery itself. There are more graves in the side chapels, dating as far back as the 13th century, but you’ll want to spend most of your time outside, appreciating the landscape, walking over waterfalls and through caves, instead of pondering your mortality.
Suggested duration: 60-90 minutes. Visit www.barcelonaturisme.com for more information.
BONUS: Castell de castellcir “la Popa”
The first record of this castle is from as far back as 1014, when it belonged to Gerard de Castellcir, who was famous for robbing relics from surrounding churches and monasteries, which he used to decorate his castle, which sounds like a good plot for a TV show, on HGTV. Gerard also lived a hedonic lifestyle, culminating in an epic Saturday night which led to his public shaming by a preacher during Sunday morning services in the nearby town of Vic. Naturally Gerard took out his bow and arrow and shot the preacher dead. Realizing what he had done (sobering up probably), he fled to Rome to seek forgiveness from the pope. He got off pretty light considering his crime; the pope forgave him in exchange for funding the building of the adjacent Sant Andreu de Castellcir Church (if he was black, he’d still be in jail). His line continued to make penance, with his grandson returning the stolen relics, and his great grandson donating the entire castle to the nearby L'Estany monastery. But that wasn’t enough penance for God apparently, who wiped out the Castellcir line, with the Black Plague. (which now seems like a pretty harsh punishment, after all that penance). It passed through various owners and survived many conflicts between the royal house of Montcada and the bishop of Vic, only to get destroyed by looters in the early 20th century (on the other hand, if it was in pristine condition, it might have been less worth the visit). Start your hike at the coordinates 41°45'38.6"N 2°09'03.4"E, or if you have a 4x4, you can drive the dirt road to start your hike closer. On the route, you’ll pass the Tower of the Moors, a defense fort rumored to be linked to Castell de Castellcir by tunnel, though the tunnel was concealed because local livestock kept wandering into it. There is also rumored to be a golden lamb buried near the tower so bring your shovel (but you’re more likely to find one of those wandered off livestock).
Suggested duration: 60-90 minutes. Visit www.moianesmes.cat for more information.
vic
Famous for its quality and variety of embutidos, or cured meats, Vic has many shops and restaurants at which you may sample the local delicacy, mixed with a variety of spices and ingredients. (Hold the pork blood please.) You’ll find most of the restaurants and cafes at Plaza Major; cured meat pairs nicely with the surrounding 14th century Gothic architecture. There’s also the Templo Romano de Vic, which somehow went undiscovered until the 1800’s, surprising given the size. (You can’t miss it.) If you’re up early the next morning before you set off, you can drop a quick prayer at the eclectically designed Sant Pere Cathedral or stock up on cured meat and liquor for the day ahead at the Medieval Market, at which you can also challenge a complete stranger to a joust.
Suggested duration: 90 minutes. Visit www.spainisculture.com for more information.
Espai Natural de les Guilleries
More impressive than the multiple panoramic views, waterfalls and ruins in this nature preserve is the immense ease in which they can be accessed. Sure, you can do a daylong, even weeklong, hike in this park, but we’re not about to abandon civilization just yet, even if there’s nothing to look forward to back home. Nature is the best medicine (especially in combination with antidepressants).
Visit www.catalunya.com for more information.
sant pere de casseres
This well-placed monastery (to say the least of its virtues) will make you reconsider not going to monk school when you had the chance. Now you’re busy meddling away at your desk job, wondering about life’s meaning. If you were “monking around” at this 11th century church the view would be meaning enough.
Suggested duration: 60 minutes. Visit santperedecasserres.cat for opening times and more information.
presa del panta de sau
A byproduct of the 1962 Sau Dam, this reservoir will have you extolling the beauties of nature… even if it was man’s creation.
Suggested duration: 30 minutes.
sant roma de sau
When the reservoir is at its highest level the church is almost fully submerged, but manages to keep its head above water. Other times, the complete ruins of the church and the rest of the village of Sant Roma de Sau are super visible, depending on the water level (and if that time of the month). The village was drowned after the implementation of dam and reservoir. Hopefully the residents were warned of that impending flood.
Suggested duration: 30 minutes.
salt de sallent
The largest waterfall in Catalonia is most impressive during or after rainfall but we’ll take a less impressive waterfall show on a sunny day, anytime. Both the top and bottom are accessible by hike or car; pick in accordance with your sexual preference.
Suggested duration: 60 minutes. Visit www.rupitpruit.cat for more information.
rupit
A popular base to explore the surrounding park, Rupit serves better as a halftime stop to break up the beautiful monotony of nature. The picturesque walkable town, with its streets and homes made of stone, goes as far back as 968 and accessed by hanging bridge (not many towns can say that). The bridge traverses the river of Rupit, running off into the Salt de Sallent.
Suggested duration: 60 minutes.
la foradada
This tranquil waterfall doubles as a fun swimming hole during the warmer months but the better the weather gets, the more people you have to contend with. If you’re not opposed a little shrinkage (physically and mentally) you can have this beauty, and the surroundings, all to yourself during the colder months.
Suggested duration: 60-90 minutes.
morro de l’abella
The top of this easily-accessible ridge provides an incredible view of the valley and river below, though it’s not suitable for the faint or heart or actual fainters, lest you fall off the ridge.
Suggested duration: 60 minutes.
BONUS: gorg del moli dels murris
One would think that you’d have to contend with snakes and natives to find this “hidden” oasis, with lush green and crystal clear water but it’s only a few minutes walk from the parking lot, and yet, less populated than La Foradada, so it’s possible you might have it all to yourself, even in the warmer months.
Suggested duration: 30-60 minutes.
STAY THE NIGHT in: GIRONA
DAY 2: 'Til Death Do us Part (Girona & Cadaques)
girona
In case you were wondering if Girona is worth visiting, keep in mind that throughout it’s history, it’s been under siege 25 times and captured seven times, so there must be something special about it. Unlike the day’s previous stops you’ll have to walk a bit to find out what that is. You can start with a walk along the medieval walls surrounding the town (be sure to notify the locals, if you see a pending siege in the distance). Then take a walk across the Eiffel Bridge, built by Gustav Eiffel, right before the other famous thing he built. If you want to see the imposing Girona Cathedral up close, you’ll have to climb the seemingly never-ending staircase to it. It was featured in season six of Game of Thrones, if that’s any added motivation to make the climb (poses an interesting dilemma for couch-potato fan boys). The town as a whole was used as the filming location for Braavos, with extensive filming in the Jewish Quarter. With narrow cobble-stone streets, it looks just like it did in old times, except replace the Jews (as the Spaniards did, during the Inquisition) with the Braavosi. If you’re not up for walking head to Placa Independencia for people watching (not creepy at all).
Suggested duration: 2 hours. Visit www.girona.cat for more information.
castle of pubol
Designed by Salvador Dali as a sanctuary and resting place for his wife Gala (setting the “best husband ever” bar pretty high), this Castle was frequented by Gala every summer from 1971 and 1980; Dali even established the rule that he would not visit her without her express written consent (no means no), a romantic gesture that she took him up on. (He probably thought that she would say, “no that’s silly, just come in” and he would then come in but still get bonus points for the attempted chivalry, but she totally milked it for nearly a decade). Dali only moved in after she died in 1982 and attempted suicide here only two years later (even if she was a frigid bitch, he must have still missed her). He lived the remainder of his life at his theater in nearby Figueres.
Suggested duration: 60 minutes. Visit www.salvador-dali.org for tickets, opening times and more information.
BOSC de CAN GINEBREDA
Designed by artist Xicu Cabanyes, beginning in 1975, this sculpture garden definitely “arouses” the senses and is not suitable for children or for adult children visiting with their grown parents, to say the least. Over one hundred statues depict sexual acts and fantasies gone horrifically wrong including a woman’s face drowning in penises (peni?) so you know what to expect. Inspired by Italy’s Mostri Park and Netherlands’ Kroller-Muller Museum, this is what happens if you’re deprived of porn for an extended time.
Suggested duration: 60 minutes. Visit www.canginebreda.cat for tickets, opening times and more information.
siurana
During the Christian reconquest of Spain in the 1100’s, Siurana was the last Muslim stronghold in all of Catalonia, partially because they were fearsome fighters, but also probably because it was so high up that opposing armies just didn’t “feel like” conquering it right now - maybe later. When it was finally conquered, the Moorish queen, Abdelazaia, rode her horse off the cliff in order for her not to get captured. You can see the supposed imprint of the horse-shoe as the horse tried to resist. (“Why do I have to die? Jump for yourself, bitch.”) Ironically, it’s a popular spot today among rock-climbers, trying to climb to the top, rather than jump to death. There’s a very small accompanying village, the highlight of which is a well-preserved 13th century church sitting on the cliff’s edge.
Suggested duration: 60 minutes. Visit www.turismesiurana.org for more information.
cadaques
A popular summer residence for the Barcelona upper class, Cadaques has also served as inspiration for the art of Salvador Dali, Pablo Picasso, and Joan Miro, so you know it’s aesthetically pleasing at least, and completely abstract at most. It’s also attracted French artists, such as Marcel Duchamp and Niki de Saint Phalle, as well American tycoon Walt Disney. In fact, the city is so great that China plans to build an exact replica of it (rather than you know, come up with their own ideas for things). Your time here will be best spent walking the shoreline and eating, preferably with a view. If you can swing it, do a private boat tour of Cap de Creus.
Suggested duration: 2-3 hours. Visit www.visitcadaques.org for more information.
STAY THE NIGHT IN: Girona
DAY 3: No Fixed Abode (Figueres & Castellfollit)
BONUS: WALTER BENJAMIN MEMORIAL
France was probably not the best place for a German to live at the outbreak of World War II. German national, and Paris resident Walter Benjamin was among the Germans in France rounded up and taken to internment camps (even though they probably left Germany for a reason) After being released, and just before the German invasion of France, Walter Benjamin tried to flee toward Spain (not because he was craving cured meat) because it was neutral territory. A group of fleeing refugees were arrested, taken to Portbou for holding, where they were told they would be sent back to France and extradited to Germany (what do you want to hear first, the bad news, or the really bad news?) Rather than give his life up to chance, Benjamin exercised his free will in the only way possible, by committing suicide via morphine (or perhaps he was just looking for kicks and got carried away). The worst part of the story, however, is that the refugees were granted asylum by Spain the next day. (“Should we tell them the good news? Nah, let’s just wait until tomorrow. What’s the worst that could happen?”) His struggle for personal freedom is commemorated with this modern artwork and memorial, framing a unique perspective of the sea and the horizon, symbolic of the limited path to freedom.
Suggested duration: 30 minutes.
figueres
The highlight of this town is undoubtedly the Theatre Museu Gala Salvador Dali, which, despite its distance from Barcelona, is the second most visited museum in all of Spain, after Museo del Prado in Madrid. The theater was mostly destroyed after a bombing campaign by Franco during the Spanish Civil War, until it was purchased by Dali, renovated (it’s technically his largest work), and used to his house some of his works, among the works of other Catalonian artists (as not to appear too self-centered); Dali spent the last years of his life living here (at least he was never later for work). The town paid tribute to him, with the surrealist rendition of his face on the pavement of Figueres’ La Rambla, which is distorted in reality but appears normal in the reflection of the mirror next to it (the reverse of your self-image). There are several stores in town to stock up on Dali souvenirs and surrealist art, best to avoid if you already have a distorted perception of reality. Instead take the two mile walk around the perimeter of Castell de Sant Ferran, on the water. Once conquered by Napoleon, it’s the largest castle in Europe that you somehow never heard of before now.
Suggested duration: 1-2 hours. Visit www.visitfigueres.cat for more information.
bonus: salt de la caula
It’s not the tallest waterfall in the region, but what it lacks in size it makes up for in presence of cafe with outdoor seating adjacent to the fall. While it’s slightly out of the way from the previous and following stops, it's worth the effort if you have the time to spare.
Suggested duration: 60 minutes. Visit www.salines-bassegoda.org for more information.
castellfollit de la roca
There’s something inherently medieval about a village perched on top a basalt crag (you can almost see a fire-breathing dragon flying toward it) with many of its homes built of the same rock on which they’re founded. Say what you will about the risk building on a cliff that will gradually erode over time; at least everyone in the village has a great view, for now (just don’t take up anyone’s invitation to see their backyard). Instead, follow the narrow and shadowy central alley to Sant Salvador, perched on at cliff’s edge, then take the your of the Sausage Museum, which is more of a restaurant than anything, and a total sausage fest to say the least.
Suggested duration: 2-3 hours. Visit www.turismegarrotxa.com for more information.
gorg de malatosca
Legend has it this waterfall is home to witches. In case you thought witches were all spells and mischief, legend tells of a witch living here who got pregnant (she cast more spell than she bargained for) and the witches asked a local non-witch midwife to assist with the delivery (you’d think witches would know how to deliver a child or that witch children magically appear). After it was delivered, the witches paid the midwife in lentils which is generally not an acceptable form of payment so the midwife left, throwing the lentils on the ground. When she got home, one of the lentils embedded in her shirt turned to gold, an unfortunate turn of events for her to say the least. On the other hand, at least she didn’t take the lentils home, and make soup out of them.
Suggested duration: 30 minutes. Visit www.santjoandelesabadesses.cat for more information.