DAY 1: From Mint to Critical Condition (San Sebastian)
txindoki
Due to its distinctive peak-shape, Txindoki is commonly referred to as the “Basque Matterhorn” (even though that’s pretty much the standard mountain shape). Take the road more travelled from Larraitz (unless you’re trying to scale the mountain vertically) through forest and near vertical pastures. It’s an average-difficulty hike to the top, achievable for those in average shape. If and when you make it down, take a short drive to Idiazabal to see how they make their famous, smoky sheep-milk cheese, and try it of course. You’ve earned it, especially after taking your fitness to the next level; might as well gain all that weight back in cheese.
Average duration: 5 hours. Visit www.naturalimits.com for more information.
san sebastian
With multiple beaches to choose from, each walking distance from one another, San Sebastian is guaranteed to induce relaxation with minimal effort on your part. Start off at La Concha Beach, with its signature white railing boardwalk. If that’s too busy for you, keep walking to Zurriola Hondartza, more popular with surfers so you know it’s cool. San Sebastian has nine Michelin star eateries, the second most per capita after Tokyo, as well as the highest concentration of bars in the world, known for their pintxos, elevated bar snacks. Combined with drinks, you have a potentially lethal combo guaranteed to take your fitness levels down a few notches.
Visit www.sansebastianturismo.com for more information.
STAY THE NIGHT in: san sebastian
DAY 2: Eye Candy and Eye Sores (Basque Coast & Bilbao)
bosque de oma
Also known as “the enchanted forest,” this forest is the work of artist Agustin Ibarrola, using the trees as a canvas to draw shapes and figures that combine to work collective imagery when seen from a certain angle. Never has defacing nature looked so pretty.
Suggested duration: 90 minutes. Visit www.bosquedeoma.com for opening times and more information.
Gaztelugatxe
Traversing the waters to this Basque Country islet, connected to the mainland by a winding, stone pedestrian-bridge, makes you feel like you’re being whisked off to a fantasyland. Perhaps that’s why it was featured in Game of Thrones, as Dragonstone, once held by Stannis Baratheon. Fortunately, there’s less witch sex and child burning here than the show would lead you to believe; the islet is capped with the 9th century hermitage of San Juan de Gaztelugatxe, dedicated to St. John the Baptist. It’s a steep climb to the hermitage, over 200 steps in total, but if you do make the journey, you can ring the hermitage bell three times and then make a wish (not going to come true but making noise is fun). It gets windy up top but there’s an adjacent refuge for picnics with a view. Although it seems like a peaceful place, it’s been attacked plenty of times, including twice in two years, 1593 and 1594, first by “Sir” Francis Drake (circumnavigating the globe can be stressful - sometimes you just need to attack something), then the Huguenots.
Suggested duration: 2-3 hours. Visit www.euskoguide.com for more information.
playa de menakoz barrika
A bit more raw than the average beach, Barrika is pretty bare when it comes to tourists as well as clothing. It’s a nudist beach, so shield your kid’s eyes if you’re from America (to reinforce the idea that the human body is a shameful thing). It’s a popular beach for surfers who are unfortunately clothed; why is it always the people who shouldn’t be naked that are naked? (maybe it’s best to shield your children’s eyes after all). Take in the views, make the journey down, then make yourself at home (take your pants off).
Suggested duration: 2-3 hours. Visit www.tourism.euskadi.eus for more information.
bilbao
The largest city in Basque Country, and its cultural capital, Bilbao really exploded in popularity after the Guggenheim landed on the riverbank. With its completely out-of-place yet arresting metallic building designed by Frank Gehry, it houses contemporary art from the likes of Richard Serra (“The Matter of Time”) and Jeff Koons, whose giant flower-power Puppy stands guard before the museum (good boy). If the Guggenheim represents the new Bilbao, Casco Viejo is definitely the old Bilbao, with narrow, color filled streets and hidden gem restaurants, as well as Nueva Plaza, if you’re trying to get your late night drink on. If contemporary art wasn’t your scene, check out the collection at Museum of Fine Arts of Bilbao, highlighted by three OG’s - Goya, Greco, Gaugin.
Visit www.bilbaoturismo.net for more information.
STAY THE NIGHT IN: bilbao
DAY 3: Falls from Grace (Gorbea & Vitoria Gasteiz)
gorbeiako parke naturala
Named after Gorbea, the tallest peak in the park, Gorbeiako Natural Park has plenty of variety to offer, in terms of landscape and hiking difficulty. The Gorbea mountain hike is obviously one of the more strenuous walks, at 3-4 hours roundtrip (uphill both ways), its peak capped with a 60 foot cross (you can run but you can’t escape God). If you’re looking for maximum beauty with minimum effort, the Heyedo de Otzaterra forest is tiny and easily accessible but its distinctive moss trees make it feel like an epic adventure.
Suggested duration: 4-5 hours. Visit www.tourism.euskadi.eus for more information.
salto del nervion
The tallest waterfall in Spain is notoriously fickle; it’s especially active during the warmer months but otherwise possibly dormant when it’s too hot or too cold (waterfalls, they’re just like us). Definitely look up recent reviews online first so you can save yourself the four-mile, round trip to get there if it’s not active; there’s no customer service to which you can complain. If you do undertake the hike, it’s a relatively flat surface, past the ruins of a hermitage, even better on a bike. Just make sure your breaks are in order.
Suggested duration: 60-90 minutes. Visit www.turismo.euskadi.eus for more information.
vitoria-gasteiz
The official capital of Basque Country gets less love than San Sebastian and Bilbao because it’s not near the coast. Half of you probably won’t read further as a result, while the other half of you can keep this hidden gem to yourselves. With museums that are representative of every art period - the modern Artium, the classical Museum of Fine Arts and the medieval-ish Museum of Sacred Art - you know it’s a real, functioning city. The most unique museum however, is the Museo Fournier de Naipes, devoted entirely to playing cards, from as far back as the 15th century (how about a round of Texuca hold-em?). It’s one of a few places where you can indulge in your love of cards without losing all your savings, turning to drinks, and losing your wife and kids, who are going to live with her sister now. But what Vitoria-Gasteiz (!) is best known for besides the Santa Maria Katedrala is its Anillo Verde, a green ring around the city - the perfect family bike ride. The quality time will make up for your eventual gambling debt.
Suggested duration: 30 minutes. Visit www.tourism.euskadi.eus for opening times and more information.