DAY 1: Glacial Pace (Vatnajokull National Park)
Skaftafell nature reserve & Svartifoss
vatnajokull national park ice cave tour (WINTER ONLY)
These naturally-forming glacial inlets look cool but looks can kill, literally. The caves form anew every winter and when sunlight penetrates the ice, the only light not filtered out is a cool, photogenic blue. The caves last to about March but can hypothetically cave in at any time, at which point you wouldn't want to be caught dead inside here - when a mountain falls on you there's very little to no chance of survival. For this reason, cave locations are kept secret; you'll need to hire an experienced guide to explore.
Averaged duration: 5-6 hours.
alternative: vatnajokull national park glacier tour
If you missed out on ice cave season or if you don't want to push your already-bad luck by actually exploring an ice cave, but you still want a taste of adventure, you can still take a walk on the wild side on a guided-glacier walk where you'll learn more than you ever thought one could learn about glaciers while getting a great workout and most importantly not getting crushed by falling ice.
Average duration: 3-4 hours.
Jokulsarlon glacier lagoon boat tours
Take a 45-minute boat tour through a lagoon filled with floating house-sized glacier chunks then go for a stroll on the black sand beach on the other side of the road, where you can find a diamond in the rough, literally, ice rocks dot the black sand and glisten under the sun, creating an otherworldly scene made possible by climate change - you can thank yourself for this natural wonder.
Suggested duration: 1-2 hours. Visit icelagoon.is for tickets, opening times and more information.
alternative: fjallsarlon iceberg boat tours
bonus: the thorbergur center
STAY THE NIGHT IN: mjoifjordur
DAY 2: Worst Case Scenarios (Mjoifjordur & Hallormsstadur)
Mjoifjordur (Spring-fall only)
If you ever felt like you just needed to get away from everything, this fjord might be the place for you. Unlike other fjords, the road doesn't loop around, so there's no passthrough traffic or casual tourists; hardcore tourists only! In the winter, the only road leading into town is closed under packed snow, and the only way in or out is via a once-weekly ferry. It sounds like the prime location for a horror movie but not to worry, you won't be visiting in the winter so instead of getting chased around by a knife-wielding killer and having to hide until the next ferry arrives you'll be treated to some of the most remote natural sights and man-made ruins Iceland has to offer. The first thing you'll notice is the Klifbrekkufossar waterfall, along the road toward the town. You'll also pass ruins of a former whaling station and a beached-whale of a herring ship rusting away on the shore. Keep following the road to the tip of the fjord, where you'll arrive at the Dalatangi lighthouse for some awesome ocean views. If you see any residents, make sure to say hi as life can get pretty lonely in Mjoifjordur (there are only about 20 residents) but be on guard, you never know who's a serial killer.
Suggested duration: 2-3 hours. Visit www.east.is for more information.
bonus: gufu waterfall & fardagafoss
Bonus: hallormsstadur & Lagarfljotsormurinn
Hallormsstadur is said to be the biggest forest in Iceland, which is like a bald guy pointing out the last remaining patch of hair on his mostly shiny head - just face it man, you're going bald. But it's alright, Iceland is like the guy who looks much better bald than he ever did with hair, which in Iceland's case was way back in medieval times - when it probably rocked a horrendous 1980s style perm. The trees are so sparse now that you'll even find a museum dedicated to trees here, along with walking paths to see them, as if you've never seen a tree before. Rather, it's at the nearby lake, Lagarfljotsormurinn, where you'll have an opportunity to see something you've never seen before: the Lagarfljot worm, which is like a cheap Chinese knock-off of the Lochness monster living in the lake, reportedly seen at various times between 1345 and the present by people of actual repute unlike most UFO witnesses.
Suggested duration: 2-3 hours. Visit www.east.is for more information.
hengifoss & LITLANESFOSS
After you give up looking for the Lagarfljot worm, make your way to the other side of the lake where you'll have no trouble finding something just as big and impressive, Hengifoss, the third tallest waterfall in Iceland. Even more impressive are the striations in the rocks behind it, revealing the constant presence of lava over time. Judging by the length between striations, it seems like Iceland's overdue for another layer of lava (it would be cool to be standing here when the waterfall is converted into a lava fall, besides the threat of impending death). In the fall, when the tide is low, there's a shallow cave behind the waterfall which you may enter, if you don't mind getting wet. As a bonus, the path to Hengifoss goes by Litlanefoss, impressive in its own right, between towering basalt columns. ("You want to get to Hengifoss, huh? First you're going to have to get through me," says Litlanefoss, in an Italian accent.)
Average duration: 2-3 hours. Visit www.east.is for more information.
kirkjufoss
studagil canyon
STAY the night IN: borgarfjordur eystri
DAY 3: Alone at Last (Borgarfjordur Eystri)
borgarfjordur eystri (late SPRING-early fall)
This remote fjord is believed to be the home of the queen and her kingdom of elves. Perhaps the lore is based on a mistranslation because the only queen and kingdom you'll find here is of puffins which happens to be a nice consolation prize anyhow. The fjord is also the starting point for some of the most popular hikes in the region and the home of the Braedslan music festival, housed in a former herring factory, bringing much business to this once boring fjord. Who knew music would be more popular than herring.
Visit www.east.is for more information.
stapavik (late SPRING- early fall)
You won't find any online maps for this remote trail but luckily it's easy to follow. On the way out of Borgarfjordur, you'll pass a sign for Stapavik, leading to the farm Unaos. From trailhead, follow the Selfljot River to see ruins of a fishing shack from the 15th century, ruins of a crane from the the 1940's, the coastline and a waterfall flowing into it, all to yourself, and some sheep.
Average duration: 4 hours. Visit www.east.is for more info.
ALTERNATIVE: storurd (Summer only)
Take the trailhead from Road 94 to discover this remote hiking region, filled with stretching green meadows, massive boulders and cool blue ponds. Bring all-weather boots in case of iced or wet terrain, because if you slip and break your leg, and no one is there to hear you scream, are you actually making a sound?
Average duration: 6 hours. Visit www.east.is for more info.