DAY 1: (Guerrero)
Parque nacional grutas de cacahuamilpa
Take a two-hour of one of the largest cave systems in the world, so large that it even houses two subterranean rivers. Of the 90 "salons" or cave-rooms, 20 are open for exploration, some as tall as ten-story buildings. If you're claustrophobic or afraid of the dark you could take comfort in the fact that the indigenous people native to this area were also terrified, until one of them went inside and reported back to the tribe that the caves were "totally awesome." The caves were then used for ceremonial purposes and continue to hold weddings and concerts to this day. So don't be afraid, you wouldn't want to miss out on something totally awesome. The tours are conducted only in Spanish but honestly words are a distraction for how totally awesome this cave is. Know what else is awesome? This national park is also home to some pretty blue water holes and 45 rock-climbing routes.
taxco
This pueblo magico became famous for its mining of silver and production of silver goods, like jewelry and silverware. The silver industry really took off when Americans started moving here in the 1920's to produce and export silver goods back to the states. Then more people started traveling here, probably looking for some bargain-bin silver, and when they saw how pretty this town was, they realized there's more to life than material things. They proceeded to buy some silver anyway, but soon people started coming here to see the town itself, until eventually tourism surpassed silver as the town's primary source of financial sustenance. As for attractions, the Baroque church Templo de Santa Prisca, financed by silver-made fortune, is a good place to start. If you're interested in the history of silver here, you can check out the William Spratling Museum or the Ex Hacienda del Chorrillo, a major colonial-era silver hacienda. If you're not into material things, the streets of Taxco are perfect for a pre-sunset stroll. The streets are narrow and have no sidewalks, which looks gorgeous until a car turns a blind spot and runs you over. Proceed with caution.
STAY THE NIGHT IN: taxco
DAY 2: Palaces Old and New (Morelos)
xochicalco
From the Nahuatl word meaning "house of flowers," this pyramid was built by the Mayans around 650 AD along a major ancient trade route. The settlement around the pyramid peaked after the fall of Teotihuacan (Part 2) leading some to speculate that this smaller civilization played some role in the downfall of that of Teotihuacan, which just goes to show you that size doesn't matter. Make sure to pick up a brochure at the museum so that you can identify the sites as you walk by them. Of note are the detailed sculpted frescoes on the Temple of the Feathered Serpent (who would easily win a popularity contest among the gods) and the ancient observatory, used to track the sun. If you're here on May 14-15 or July 28-29, the sun shines through a hole in the stones, illuminating an image of the sun on the floor. It would be much cooler if a secret door suddenly opened, but it's still pretty cool.
cuernavaca
This city would definitely qualify a "pueblo magico" if it wasn't so big and well-known. Originally settled by the Olmec about 3,200 years ago, it has seen it's fair share of visitors, starting with Aztec royalty, who made this city their summer residence (apparently the Aztec also had summer homes). In the 1930's, Cuernavaca was a popular gambling destination, attracting celebrities such as Rita Hayworth and mafia figures like Al Capone. A decade later, it served as the setting for the popular novel Under the Volcano. In the 60's, noted psychologist and mental explorer Timothy Leary visited several times to embark on a series of psilocybin trips. Also in the 60's, many of the directors, producers, actors and writers, who were blacklisted from Hollywood under the McCarthy doctrine, settled and filmed here. Most famously, several scenes from Butch Cassidy and the Sundance Kid were filmed in town. The Shah of Iran also lived here for a brief time in exile following the Iranian Revolution of 1979. There's a lot of history here; you could learn more about it at the Palace of Cortez, which also house several Diego Rivera murals detailing the history of the town. If you're looking for something a little more offbeat, you could check out the Museum of Traditional Herbal Medicine which often hosts classes and workshops on uses of various plants, though perhaps unfortunately, you won't find psilocybin on the syllabus.
STAY THE NIGHT IN: CUERNAVACA
DAY 3: Peak Mexico (Tepoztlan)
Zona arqueologica el tepozteco
On the top of a hill overlooking Tepoztlan Valley, you'll find the remains of the temple dedicated to Tepozteco, the god of alcohol and sex, who easily takes the cake for most awesome god. The hike starts on a forested path flanked by various street food and craft stalls. The ascent is short but steep and usually wet, so it might take up to two hours with frequent stops. Once you're at the top, you can honor Tepozteco by cracking open a bottle of pulque (fermented agave drink), and finding a thornless bush for you and your lover to do the deed. Just be on the lookout for the caoti, the feisty little bastards which look like monkeys with raccoon heads. If they see you with food, they'll show you how little regard they have for your personal boundaries. At the end of the trail, back down the mountain, you'll find some delicious and authentic street food to help you sober up.
tepoztlan
If you want to see a fragment of the Tepozteco statue that once decorated the temple at the top hill, you can find it at the Carlos Pellicer Collection. Right next door you can see the Parish of the Nativity and the old convent established by the Dominican order of monks in the 1500's, one of whom was the bastard who smashed the Tepozteco statue, likely jealous of all the fun his followers were having. Tepozteco is also famous for its exotic flavors of ice cream such as corn or fig with mezcal, which along with alcohol and sex, makes Tepoztlan the official pleasure capital of Mexico, and adds a new meaning to the phrase "pueblo magico." It also happens to be the fabled birthplace of our popular, feathered friend Quetzalcoatl. Coincidence? I think not.