Part 1 | Part 2 | Part 3 | Part 4 | Part 5 | Part 6 | OVERVIEW

PART 5: WESTERN FRONTIER (CENTRAL MEXICO)

DAY 1: Teeming with Wildlife (Michoacan and Valle de Bravo)

desierto de los liones

Inching closer back to Mexico City, you'll pass through the Desert of the Lions, which despite its name, is not actually a desert, but a lush forest and needless to say, does not contain any lions in it, otherwise you obviously wouldn't be coming here for a leisurely stroll and a picnic. There are dozens of well-kept trails to explore on foot or by bike, and you'll have plenty encounters with local wildlife, such as deer and armadillos. But make sure you save some time to see the Carmelite Convent, with its beautiful garden and trout farm. The park has several restaurants and bathrooms so you can easily spend the day here relaxing and exploring.

monarch butterfly Biosphere reserve

You're not the only one headed south for the winter. The monarch butterfly is the only species of butterfly capable of migrating, like birds, in two directions. Every winter they travel thousands of miles from the US and Canada to Mexico, which probably takesa while, given that their flight speed tops out at 5 mph, but at least they don't have to go through customs so it probably evens out in the end. It's actually not that funny given that it takes eight months to get here, during which time four generations of butterfly live and die. So about three quarters of them never get to see the promised land and the quarter of them that make it don't even know why they're there in the first place. Yet mysteriously, they know how to get back here, year after year, despite having never individually been here. It's an impressive feat as well as an impressive sight to see so many butterflies concentrated in one place.

valle de bravo

This lakeside "pueblo magico" was affectionately referred to by the NY Times as "the Hamptons of Mexico City," which is kind of off-putting because this is exactly the type of place you're trying to escape by coming to Mexico. And yet, as with the Hamptons, it's just impossible to resist the allure of boutique shops, trendy cafes, and chic socialites. If that doesn't tempt you, the lake shore is home to an eclectic array of water sports, such as paragliding and jet-skiing. You can also walk around the pier and hike to the town's highest peak for a great view at sunset. But if you're here just to shop and be seen we won't judge you. Considering the next two days will be spent mostly in nature, Valle de Bravo is like your oasis of commercialism in a desert of... well... desert.

STAY THE NIGHT IN: VALLE de bravo

Day 1 | Day 2 | Day 3

DAY 2: (Valle de Bravo and Nevado de Toluca)

Cascada velo de novia

A short drive from the center of Valle de Bravo and a 15-minute hike from the parking lot will take you to this breathtaking 115-foot waterfall, in the middle of a forest. This government-owned park is well maintained with bathrooms, restaurants and craft stalls so there's plenty more to do here. If possible, get here as early as possible so you don't have to compete with others for a good view.

nevado de toluca National park

A scenic drive along the highest mountain road in the country takes you to the fifth highest mountain in Mexico which is actually a dormant volcano. Once you get to the parking lot, it's about an hour-long hike to the shorter of two peaks, which gives you a solid view of the crater and the two lakes inside. If you want to walk around the crater or climb the highest peak, it will take you three to four hours. Due to the low levels of oxygen at higher altitudes, you might find more comfort in taking in the views from the shorter of the peaks. On weekends, you'll find some food options in the parking lot. Otherwise, bring your own food and water to refuel.