DAY 1: The Road to the Past (Chapultepec and Zona Rosa)
paseo de la reforma
After the French overthrew the Mexican government of Benito Juarez (1864), Emperor Maximilian commissioned the building of this road, in the style of a European boulevard, to connect his newly acquired castle in Bosque Chapultepec, or Mexico's Central Park (which you'll explore today) to the city center (which you'll explore tomorrow). Originally named "Passage of the Empress," after his wife, it was renamed Paseo de la Reforma, after the Reform War, in which Maximilian was executed and Benito Suarez returned to power. Along this road you'll find several monuments commemorating focal points in Mexican history, most notably the "Angel of the Independence" statue, which honors the heroes of the Mexican War of Independence from Spain (1810-1821), some of whom were re-interred at the base of this statue. Of course, being interred in the middle of the busiest intersection in Mexico City doesn't exactly sound like resting in peace, but at least their bravery won't soon be forgotten.
Bosque de chapultepec
The Central Park of Mexico had been cherished by the ruling class as far back as the Aztecs priests, who were said to have come here on vacation. (Yes, even the Aztecs needed a break once in a while from the crazy 9 to 5 of sun worship and human sacrifice.) Of course, you didn't come on vacation just to visit this park, but visiting this park will give your lungs a break from the Mexico City air. The park is considered to be one of several "lungs" that supplies the city with fresh air which tells you a lot about the overall air quality in the city, and explains why the park is so packed. If you're visiting on the weekend, get there as early as possible, or you'll be fighting for precious air and personal space.
chapultepec castle
The only castle in North America to have served as the home of royalty, that being Maximilian of the Second Mexican Empire, now serves as a National History Museum. Maximilian had it designed to suit his Austrian-born tastes so there's nothing really Mexican about it, but it's beautiful nevertheless. Be sure to check out the garden and the view of Mexico City from the top floor.
Open Tuesday-Sunday, 9 AM-4:30 PM, closed Mondays and holidays
Museo Nacional de Antropología
What makes this museum noteworthy is the extent and significance of the artifacts exhibited, including the Aztec calendar stone pictured above, some massive stone Olmec heads and various Mayan treasures. When the Mayans finally return to Earth, they'll be happy to know we preserved all their stuff for them. Although it's tempting, you probably won't be able to tackle the museum in one day. It's unintentionally helpful that most of the placards aren't in English, so you don't waste too much time reading stuff.
Open Tuesday-Sunday, 9 AM-7 PM, closed Mondays and holidays
zona rosa
After the sun sets, head back to where you started your day, on Paseo de la Reforma. If you go a few blocks south, you'll see the neighborhood completely lit up, people flooding the streets, and an overall festive scene. In this LGBT-friendly and tourist-centric neighborhood, you'll find various hole in the wall restaurants, karaoke bars, and pretty much anything else that floats your boat.
STAY THE NIGHT IN: MEXICO CITY
DAY 2: Downtown Diego (Centro Historico and Polanco)
diego rivera mural museum
Dream of a sunday afternoon in alameda park
There's probably other stuff to see here besides the Diego Rivera mural, but when you call your museum The Diego Rivera Mural Museum it's going to be difficult to generate interest for other exhibitions. Nevertheless, there's enough going on in this one mural to keep you busy for a while; each person represented in the mural is an actual person from the life and times of Diego Rivera.
Open Tuesday-Sunday, 10 AM-6 PM, closed Mondays and holidays
zocalo
Damn, that's a really big square. Also known Plaza de la Constitucion, this square has served as a gathering place since the Aztec times and currently serves as a "national mall" type area where officials are sworn in and a place for major religious celebrations (so much for the separation of church and state!) It's also extremely busy, and is a prime location for pickpockets, so either be on guard or preemptively start pickpocketing other people. It's nice to see but it's also very touristy so no need to stay for long.
Mexico city metropolitan cathedral
The largest cathedral in all the Americas, located in the Zocalo, was built on the site of an Aztec temple and built partially with the stones of that temple, which is kind of like adding insult to injury. Perhaps it's karma that the entire structure is sinking. Actually it's the fact that most of Mexico City is built on swamplands so see it all while you can. There's plenty to see inside in terms of artistry, but be sure to take the tour of the bell towers. Tickets can be purchased to the right of the entrance right after walking inside.
Open daily, 8 AM-8 PM
Templo mayor museum
Across the square, you can pay your respects to what remains of the Aztec temple that was supplanted by the Cathedral. There's a museum to give you some background, but let's cut the foreplay - we're here for the ruins. Okay so maybe you'd like to read up a little bit more. Here's the gist of it to save you some time: it's a temple, tons of people were probably sacrificed here in the name of the god of war. There was probably some dancing going down for the god of rain. It sounds like it would've been a great party, assuming you weren't the one being sacrificed.
palacio virreinal
This gigantic building, which stretches almost the entire length of Zocalo, has housed various royalty since the time of Moctezuma II. More importantly, it houses one of Diego Rivera's most epic works of art: a triptych of massive murals depicting Mexican history, from pre-civilization, to the conquest of Mexico and the modern day, in which Rivera painted various capitalist and socialist figures and his wife, Frida Kahlo, smack in the middle, which probably served as an elaborate apology for one of his numerous affairs.
Open Tuesday-Sunday, 9 AM-5 PM, closed Mondays and holidays
Bonus: secretario de educacion publica
Just a few blocks away is one of Diego Rivera's first large-scale works, in which he adorned two three-level courtyards, with hundreds of murals depicting themes of labor and Mexican culture. It's really impressive that he did all this in only five years, (considering it took me one month to write this sentence.) It's interesting how eclectic these murals are, reflecting the artist's mixture of influences. Case in point: a Hindu-goddess holding a hammer and a sickle, both symbols of the Communist party.
Open Tuesday-Sunday, 9 AM-5 PM, closed Mondays and holidays
palacio postal
This beautiful building holds the important distinction of being... a post office? You would think that it used to house some Mexican royalty and was then converted into a post office, but no, it was built this way with the intention to be a post office from the start. So while you're busy marveling at the interior, you're probably in the way of ordinary Mexican citizens just trying to get their mail.
Open Monday-Friday, 8 AM-7:30 PM, Saturday 10 AM-4 PM, Sunday 10 AM-2 PM, closed holidays
The house of tiles
The intricately-tiled facade of this former residence and current restaurant was commissioned by an 18th century countess right after her husband's death, the earliest known example of retail therapy. The tiles were extremely expensive, and it's likely safe to assume her husband would not have approved of this idea. But what good is money if you can't have the nicest facade in town?
Palacio de Bellas Artes
Sure, you could just go inside during the day or even take a tour of this beautiful Art-Deco building, along with its many murals, including Diego Rivera's recreation of Man at the Crossroads (the mural he originally did in Rockefeller Center in 1933, which the Rockefellers destroyed due to their displeasure with the inclusion of Lenin and other Soviet symbols.) Or better yet you could go here to see some of the finest acts in music and theater, which really enlivens the interior and gives you an excuse to dress up.
Open Tuesday-Sunday, 10 AM-5 PM, closed Mondays; see website for schedule of events and tickets
Polanco
Walking through this neighborhood at night, you'd think you were in Miami. While you'll find plenty American staples here, from PF Chang's to Saks Fifth Avenue, you'll also find (or won't find) some of the best speakeasies and local eateries the city has to offer.
STAY THE NIGHT IN: MEXICO CITY
DAY 3: Use Your Imagination (North of Zocalo and Roma Norte)
basilica of our lady of guadalupe
This is the second most-visited Catholic site in the world after only the Vatican, which means something important happened here. Legend has it the Virgin Mary miraculously showed up here in 1531. You can see an image of her from anywhere inside the circular basilica, preferably during a service for a more authentic experience. Back outside, you can take a tour of the grounds, including the old Basilica, which was mostly abandoned due to sinking, and the beautiful landscape and waterfalls of Jardin del Tepeyac.
Open daily, 6 AM-8 PM; mass every hour on the hour
biblioteca vasconcelos
Also known as The City of Books, this insane library looks like something out of a science fiction movie, but without the cars flying through it. Also, it's not a gathering place for aliens from various planets, but if that's what you're looking for, you can always pick up a science fiction book. Being here really makes you want to read more but don't be fooled - you will never actually read more.
Open daily, 8:30 AM-7:30 PM, closed holidays
BONUS: Ex cine opera (abandoned opera house)
A few blocks away, you'll find what was once one of the most popular theaters in Mexico City. Unfortunately you can't go inside, unless you're the type of person that can find a way in, but it's still worth passing by for a look at its dramatic Art-Deco exterior.
soumaya museum
This museum is notable for the extent of its collection, with art and artifacts that spans the course of over 3,000 years, from pre-civilization Mexico to the works of European masters such as Dali, Picasso, Van Gogh, Da Vinci, Renoir and Matisse as well as art from the locals Diego Rivera and Rufino Tamayo. The museum is named after the late wife of the founder, billionaire Carlos Slim.
Open Wednesday-Monday, 10:30-6:30 PM, Saturday 10:30-8 PM, closed Tuesdays and holidays
Fuente de tlaloc (Tlaloc Fountain)
Maybe it's not the prettiest sculpture but it's the personality that counts. One of Diego Rivera's last projects, the sculpture, fountain and nearby water tank were all part of an elaborate infrastructure plan to regulate the flow of water. Although the project was discontinued, the sculpture was recently restored to showcase the artistry. You know what? It's kind of growing on me now.
roma norte (neighborhood)
Undoubtedly the Brooklyn of Mexico City, Roma Norte is a quiet residential neighborhood filled with converted warehouses and a lot of trees. While it's not exactly happening like Zona Rosa or Condesa, it's still the perfect spot for a low key evening. If you want a lot of options in one place, you can start off at the trendy Mercado Roma, but the whole neighborhood is ripe for exploration.