DAY 1: Preserving the Past Part 1 (Teqisquiapan)
Toluquilla & ranas archaeological zones
If you're driving here from San Luis Potosi (Part 3 - The Northern Wild) you'll be driving through the lush forest of the Sierra Gorda Biosphere Reserve past Puerta del Cielo (Heaven's Door) where you could catch some stellar views of the landscape from above. If you're coming straight from Mexico City, you'll still be blessed with the solid views afforded by these two distinct archaeological zones. Perched on separate cliffs high above the village of San Joaquin, (not to be mistaken with the nearby city of San Joaquin) these two complexes date back to several thousand years ago. Until recently, little effort has been put into research and most of the background information about the ruins remains unknown. As such, you won't find any placards to explain things, but it gives it all an air of mystery and authenticity that you won't find at other ruins in Mexico. If you plan on visiting, you should be generally fearless. The drive up is hair-raising and once you're up there, you're more likely to see tarantulas than other human beings. But if you've ever wanted to feel like a young Indiana Jones, you won't find a better opportunity. To make the most of your day, choose just one of these sites to explore. Ranas has easier access to the top. Toluquilla is more isolated and thus more challenging to find.
TEQUISQUIAPAN
The still-active mining town of Tequisquiapan is another "pueblo magico," a designated historic site known for the preservation of its colonial architecture and for the precious opal stones mined here. On most afternoons you will find a handicrafts market in the center of town selling various goods, including jewelry that features the local opal. Tequisquiapan is also part of Queretaro's Ruta del Vino (wine route) so between the jewelry and the wine, you'll have plenty to keep you occupied through the rest of the day.
STAY THE NIGHT IN: TEQUISQUIAPAN
DAY 2: Preserving the Past Part 2 (San Miguel de Allende)
El pueblito pyramid
Like most other pyramids in Mexico, this pyramid, also known as Cerrito, served as a religious center for various tribes over a two-thousand year period. What's unique about El Pueblito is that it was one of the last pyramids to serve as a place of worship to the old gods. Because of it's isolation, indigenous people continued to worship here in secret even after the Spanish conquest and the designation of Catholicism as the official religion of New Spain. When local priests caught wind of its existence, they dispatched the missionaries to clear the old relics and install a statue of the Virgin Mary on site, effectively ending the ancient way of life.
San miguel de allende
This historic town so perfectly preserves its past that it's been declared a UNESCO world heritage site. Unfortunately, because it's so perfect, it attracts many tourists and expatriates, who own more businesses here than the locals, which is one of the reasons it lost its designation as a "pueblo magico." Now with a Starbucks and a McDonald's, part of the magic is gone but nevertheless, it's still so damn pretty here that you're going to come here and you're going to enjoy it. Any visit should start with the Plaza Allende, and the San Miguel Church, which was modeled after postcards of European churches. There are a couple history museums and some colonial-style mansions to see but unless you're here to see something specific, your best bet is to just wander around. Try to save some energy for the nightlife though, when San Miguel's bohemian style truly shines.
STAY THE NIGHT IN: SAN MIGUEL DE ALLENDE
DAY 3: Preserving the Past Part 3 (Guanajuato)
canada de la virgen
Although open to the public, this pyramid and surrounding complex are technically situated on the private property of a German lady who doesn't allow visitors without a tour guide, so you'll have to book in advance. Like other pyramids, its origin is unknown, save for a few possibilities, but it's unique for its advanced appreciation of astronomy, as reflected in its arrangement. For more information on its celestial underpinnings, make sure your tour includes a visit to the nearby Museum of Prehispanic Astronomy.
guanajuato
Technically more of a city than a town, Guanajuato still has the feel of an old colonial town when trying to navigate its labyrinthine streets. Unlike the small towns, however, this is not a place to just wander aimlessly as you could easily get lost, and the whole day would be wasted. It's therefore good to have a rough idea of what you'd like to see while you're here. You could start in the center, where you'll find Museo Casa Diego Rivera, the home where Rivera grew up turned art museum, and the famous Alley of the Kiss, where two lovers who were in a forbidden relationship lived across the way from each other on a street so narrow they could kiss one another from outside their bedroom windows (basically a Mexican version of Romeo and Juliet.) From there you can go west to the Museum of the Mummies, one of the most impressive collections of mummies in the world. After that, you can find yourself a nice restaurant and enjoy a nighttime stroll (with a couple drinks on the way) down these gorgeous, romantically lit streets.