DAY 1: ()
Museu Nacional de Arte Antiga
With over 40,000 objects, Museu Nacional de Arte Antiga holds one of the largest art collections in the world, strange considering you’ve probably never heard of this museum before (unless you’re an art snob, in which case you’re probably scoffing right now). It was started in 1884 to display the private collection of the Portuguese Royal Family, most of which was religious art confiscated from monasteries and noble families in the Portuguese Liberal Wars of the 1830’s (if art can’t be appreciated by the masses, does it even exist?) Among the works housed in 17th century Janelas Verdes palace are Triptych of the Temptation of Saint Anthony by Hieronymous Bosch (just a bit of harmless fun, the devil said), Saint Jerome in his Study (either he can’t focus or he’s constipated) by Albrecht Durer and the 1470 Saint Vincent Panels, one of the first collective portraits with sixty people depicted across 5 panels, representing a cross-section of medieval Portuguese society, gathered in praise of St. Vincent (rich folks up front, get back poors).
Suggested duration: 60 minutes. Visit www.museudearteantiga.pt for opening times and more information.
BONUS: Oriente Museum
Opened in 2008, the Oriente Museum is dedicated to the cross-section of Portuguese and Oriental art, in attempt to preserve the link between the two worlds (they can start by changing its name). It’s like an Asian fusion restaurant except in this case, it works.
Suggested duration: 60 minutes. Visit www.museudooriente.pt for opening times and more information.
MAAT
The Museum of Art, Architecture and Technology is one of the most visited museums in Lisbon with a collection of works spanning the three disciplines (pick one) but it’s more known for its exterior, blending seamlessly into the Tagus River (hope they have flood insurance). As much as you like to support the arts, you’re now a patron of the views (the arts are well-endowed enough anyway).
Suggested duration: 60 minutes. Visit www.maat.pt for opening times and more information.
BONUS: National Coach Museum
Housing the most extensive collection of carriages in the world (not Coach bags, sorry ladies), this complex is built adjacent to the Portuguese School of Equestrian Art in 1787, for the purpose of training and exhibition, with balconies for the royal family’s viewing pleasure (dance, horses, dance!) and azulejo tile ceilings. Turned into a museum by Queen Amelia in 1905, its collection holds some famed carriages from Portuguese history (bring your own horse) such as the “rental carriage” of Philip II used to travel from Spain to Portugal in 1619 and the carriage gifted to King John V in 1719 by the pope, Clement XI (your hard-earned alms-dollars at work).
Suggested duration: 60 minutes. Visit www.visitlisboa.com for opening times and more information.
Palacio Nacional da Ajuda
On property acquired by King John V in 1726 to house the royal family of Portugal, the first iteration of a palace was built by his son King Joseph I out of wood as he feared living in a palace made of stone after the 1755 earthquake (this palace was lost in a fire, ironically). Construction on a real palace began in 1795, but was interrupted several times, first because the royal family fled for Brazil (not because of the nice beaches but because of the invasion of Napoleon’s army) then due to the rising liberal forces, which reduced royal power in 1833 and eliminated what power was left in the 1910 Revolution, forcing young king Carlos I to exile (and not in Brazil but in England, adding insult to injury). The palace was never truly finished (it would be seen as hypocritical for the new republic to spend money finishing a royal property) but they did finally make efforts to preserve it as a museum in 1938.
Originally Baroque inspired, the palace evolved into a neoclassical work with the long passage of time in construction (and often conflicting tastes of the many royal women who lived here). You’ll begin your tour in the Archer’s Hall, built by Joaquim Machado de Castro (People Magaizine’s sexiest sounding man alive, 1850) adorned with metal shields and paintings that depict the military victories of Portugal (not pictured: military defeats). The Spanish Tapestry Hall depicts the lives of the royals through 8 tapestries, including such important duties as playing cards and taking lunch (must be nice). In King Luis’s Room is a portrait of King Carlos I who was assassinated along with his son in Praca do Comercio in 1908 (with his “robustness” that made him a rather easy target).
You’ll pass through the “colored rooms,” first the Blue room (not actually blue but avant-garde in design), the Pink room with royal porcelain collection (you break it, you buy it), and the Green room (actually green) used by the Queen to receive visitors, including Queen Maria Pia’s son Carlos I who was born there. Rounding out the first floor is the Winter Garden (when you want some nature but you’re too lazy to go outside), Queen’s Dining Room and the Billiard Room, where royals spent their family time (over forcedly polite conversation). Highlights of the second floor (if you make it that far) include the L&M Room, named for Luis I and Maria Pia, who designed most of the palace interior, the Queen’s Portrait Room, with - you guessed it - a full length portrait of Maria Pia, and Throne Room, with thrones for both Luis I and Maria Pia (ipretty clear who wore the crown in this relationship). Last but not least in grandeur are the Chinese Room, Ballroom and Supper Room used for entertaining guests (also over forcedly polite conversation).
Suggested duration: 90 minutes. Visit www.lisbonlisboaportugal.com for opening times and more information.